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Bacillus pumilus

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Bacillus pumilus
Scientific classification Edit this classification
Domain: Bacteria
Phylum: Bacillota
Class: Bacilli
Order: Bacillales
Family: Bacillaceae
Genus: Bacillus
Species:
B. pumilus
Binomial name
Bacillus pumilus
Meyer and Gottheil 1901 (Approved Lists 1980)

Bacillus pumilus is a Gram-positive, aerobic, spore-forming bacillus commonly found in soil.[1]

Bacillus pumilus spores—with the exception of mutant strain ATCC 7061—generally show high resistance to environmental stresses, including UV light exposure, desiccation, and the presence of oxidizers such as hydrogen peroxide.[2] Strains of B. pumilus found at the NASA Jet Propulsion Laboratory were found to be particularly resistant to hydrogen peroxide.[3]

A strain of B. pumilus isolated from black tiger shrimp (Penaeus monodon) was found to have high salt tolerance and to inhibit the growth of marine pathogens, including Vibrio alginolyticus, when cultured together.[4]

YouTube Encyclopedic

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  • How to Till Your Garden WITHOUT a Rototiller

Transcription

All right! This is John Kohler of GrowingYourGreens.com and today we have another exciting episode for you and we’re coming at you from my backyard garden. Nice sunny day, nice and hot actually, and what we’re doing in this episode is I’m explaining an alternative to tilling your soil. You know I hear people renting rototillers and using tillers and all that stuff and it makes me cringe man! I would not want to be underneath a rototiller and get rototilled up man, that’s a horrible way to go. So, I’m a big fan of no-till garden so what is no-till garden? Does that mean you never stick a shovel or a fork or anything in the garden? Well, you know, I try to disturb my soil the least, that’s the big thing about no-till garden. It doesn’t mean you’re never going to till but you’re going to till as minimal as you possibly need to just to do the work that you need to without disturbing the soil. “What’s the big problem with disturbing the soil, John?” You might be thinking, well you know there’s complex life in the soil There’s bacteria, fungi, different arthropods, and earthworms! All kinds of things living in soil and when you till you’re disturbing their life you know? The analogy I like to give is actually say you had robbers break into your house and they’re in your bedroom and they’re trying to rip up your mattress, go through all your drawers, find that money hidden in that sock, right? And then you get home and your house is ransacked! How do you feel about when your house is ransacked? I mean your place is all discombobulated, everything’s out of place right? And then it takes you some time to get everything back in order so that you can continue in living your life. The same thing happens with the soil microbes in there I mean you rototill man, you’re discombobulating them, you’re killing a bunch of them and they’re going to be fragile man and they’re going to have to rebuild their colonies and establish…and you’re probably ripping up earthworms and you’re disturbing all this. And in my version of organic gardening, which is actually called biologic organic gardening, which is different than just organic gardening. You know we really want to cultivate the microbes and the life in the soil, that’s the most important thing by far, right? So, what happened to me is I built these raised beds—you should check my other videos for videos on that if I posted this yet I don’t know how this is going to go, the ordering of all these videos I’ve been making lately—but what happened here is I built these raised beds, they’re 2 blocks high, each block is 8 inches so it’s 16 inches total. I got about one cubic yard of organic compost from a local company: A1 Organics that I actually do not recommend at this point. They actually made me take a video down because I didn’t have “approval” or something from the President CEO of the company and I have challenges with people that want to limit the information, man. And I think you know, that’s not too cool! So, anyways—and the composts stink! Anyways, and I provided a realistic video of the whole process and I just tell it like it is and I tell it how I see it, you know kind of keep it real, and evidently they didn’t like the realness of it. I mean the only things I could think of is that I mentioned that the composts stink, number one. I mentioned number two, that the compost may be cut with sand and I don’t know if that’s true or not cause I don’t know what they’re doing but it sure looked like it for me cause it’s pretty sandy and I’ve checked out a lot of compost in my day and age. In any case, I had this stuff stored in garbage cans, a whole yard’s worth, and I dumped it in these raised beds you see behind me here and that makes up like the first couple inches, right? Because that stuff stinks so much I had to ferry it over and put stuff on top of it so I wouldn’t get the fumes, so I wouldn’t have to smell that stanky compost, right? Compost should have a neutral smell when you buy it like I probably shouldn’t have bought that compost but I was so excited about a place making a predominantly plant-based compost here in Los Vegas, you know I looked aside and figured oh I’m going to try this stuff. So, anyways I buried that stuff underneath and on top what you’re seeing here is some gardening soil blend that my friend gave me when she moved out of her place. So, that’s been sitting in piles in my yard unused for about a year. I haven’t been tending to them, nothing’s been planted in them, they weren’t getting any water, so then basically a soil dries out and it becomes like a sand, man. You know it doesn’t look super “lifeful,” it’s kind of gray not that dark, rich, black, loam that we’re looking for like in the middle of a forest and what not. And that’s the situation here so what I want to do is I want to help you know, ignite the fire you know? Just cause you have wood doesn’t mean you have a fire, you gotta have that spark and it ignites so in the same way I want to ignite this soil full of the microbiology cause you know, just my garden intuition is sensing that this is not super healthy soil in the sense of the biology in there, I don’t think there’s a whole bunch. So, what we’re going to do today is actually inoculate the soil with this stuff here it’s called the, “Penetrate Liquid Biotiller,” and it penetrates the soil. This is made not only for sandy soils or soils that may not have the bacteria but it’s also made for clay soils, if you’ve got a clay soil that you can’t grow anything in…you know, the goal to make clay soil better is not to add sand cause it still will harden up, right? What we need to do is we need to get the biologics in there, that bacteria in there, the aerobic bacteria that’s basically going to breakdown the organic matter in there create airspace and allow you to basically till the garden using bacteria which are literally hundreds and thousands of workers in—what’s in this package here that’s going to do the work for you. So, you don’t have to manually do it, right? Isn’t it much smarter to get nature working on your side then having to rent a rototiller and burn gas and you know work behind it. And yes this is not going to work overnight and if you have clay soil, you put this stuff in, you’re not going to come back in a day and say, “Oh yeah it’s tilled.” No, I mean nature doesn’t work that way. Things take time to happen properly, you’re going to have to make probably multiple applications, with each application your soil’s gonna loosen up and loosen up and one day hopefully by—with also doing other good practices like adding rich organic matter and trace minerals and growing some plant material and having fungus in there and other things—your soil’s going to be autocorrect. I mean in nature’s system, there is no waste and in nature’s system everything happens for a reason right? And only when man gets involved and we try to do things to our system things don’t work and in my opinion, rototilling is in our system but it’s not in nature’s system. There’s not such thing as rototillers in nature. But, next thing’s let’s talk about how this “Penetrates” works here. Let’s go ahead and open this guy up and inside this is actually these little two bottles, bottle number A and bottle number B and a box that you can compost. So, in bottle number A—the bottle number A is actually the food bottle so these come separate you should not mix these together until you’re ready to use them. This is for a very important reason. This is the food bottle, the food bottle contains things like the kelp and the saponins that’s actually going to feed the bacteria once you mix them together and it’s gonna enliven them. The bacteria in bottle number B, these are the beneficial microbes including Bacillus subtilis, Bacillus pumilus, Bacillus licheniformis, and I don’t know what those guys do but every different bacteria in this product has a specific task you know they break down organic matter and the other thing to remember is that the bacteria is the base of the food soil web. So, what is a food soil web? Well, I have a nice little infographic here from John and Bob’s and this is what the food soil web is to break it down. You have different things in your soil such as the bacteria, the bacteria they fight pests and disease and you can see a little oh I don’t know, a bacteria man here! Ha he’s looking like Batman. But they fight pests and disease and they’re the base of the whole food soil web. They’re what provides food for all the other things in the food soil web. After the bacteria, you got the fungi and then, after the fungi you got the protozoa, and after protozoa you got the nematodes, then you got the arthropods, then you got earthworms, right? All these creatures in the soil have a big part to play and they need to be in balance in your soil to have optimal growing success and have a healthy and vibrant garden. You know these are the creatures in your soil that basically make compost, the nutrients in the compost available for the plants. That’s why it’s so important to me to literally inoculate the soil with this bacteria, so that they can get to work. They can start tilling my soil and creating a live soil that’s gonna help actually break down the soil that I’m going to pile on the top, eight inches of this stuff here. So, that’s why I’m using the, “Penetrate Liquid Biotiller,” even though I don’t need to till it it’s going to help provide aeration and inoculate it with the beneficial microbes that are, in my opinion, so important. Now, another thing that’s really cool about the “Penetrate” liquid here is that these are the same very microbes that are sold in some organic fungicides so this product is only sold for use in the soil, right? But, if you wanted to, like I will, you actually can also mix these guys and then spray it on your leaves because you know one of the bottles actually has a good deal of kelp so you can foil or feed it to your plants that way plus also provide that beneficial microbes on your plants to help potentially knock out any diseases as well. So, I mean these are the kinds of products we could use that we could spray on plants, you know they’re non-toxic and they’re good for us and the soil—and you know if you have any pets—safe for use around pets. So, what we’re gonna do next is actually just apply this stuff, this is a 32 ounce pack for home gardeners, you’re definitely not gonna need these big guys here. They have a smaller 8 ounce set that you’ll just combine both of them and mix in basically a gallon of water or more water—doesn’t matter how much water you need to use to distribute them all—and then distribute this and just spray it throughout your garden. So, you could do this in a hose and sprayer like I’m gonna do here, I got a Hudson hose and sprayer. You could do this in a pump sprayer and if you’re not really that high tech you could also just put it in watering can and water it. You know the hose and sprayer or a pump sprayer is probably more effective than just a watering can cause you’d be able to get these guys and spread it all over your garden. And just once small packet of the “Penetrate” will cover 1000 square feet and these large bottles cover 4000 square feet and I even have that here. Now, the cool thing to remember is that the recommended amounts on the packets are the minimum amounts, right? To get results! I always like to overdue things when the products I use don’t burn. This will not burn your soil or anything like that so if you have a dilution or a little bit much of this stuff on your garden that’s totally fine and the only negative is it might just cost you a little extra money cause you’re using too much product. So, what we’re gonna do is we’re just gonna go ahead and take this guy. Shake these guys up a little bit. I’m gonna estimate how much 8 ounces is here. So, that looks like it’s the bacteria oh and this one’s alive—we’re gonna go ahead and try to go ahead and pour equal amounts of this stuff in my bottles. These are—it’s marked on here for 8 ounces I think I’m halfway up there or so and if I look in my bottles here it looks like I’ve about used even amounts so I think I’m good with that. Once again if you get the smaller size just dump the whole bottle in. And all we’re gonna do now is just screw on the top. These hose and sprayers are really simple and easy to use; you can select the different patterns. I’m gonna use the rain pattern. The next thing we’re gonna need to do is take the hose—and I am using filtered water, a Boogie Blue water filter on it—you know if you are using conventional city tap water it does contain chlorine which is for your health and sanitation so you don’t get E. coli or Cryptosporidium/Giardia outbreak or something like that but it’s bad for your soil and bad for the bacteria. So, I recommend you do get for your garden a Boogie Blue or other suitable garden filter to remove the chlorine because the chlorine’s there to kill the bacteria and I’m here to make the bacteria flourish so I do not want the chlorine. Okay so we just unscrewed my little hose thing and we’re gonna put this guy here and screw it on. All right, so once you got your sprayer all set up we’re ready to spray you just gotta set your dilution ratio—unfortunately the dilution ratio on the packet is in ounces per gallon and on the Hudson sprayer it’s actually in teaspoons or tablespoons per gallon so I’m actually gonna set it to one tablespoon per gallon. Keep in mind that this amount of product will treat 1000 square feet so if you get over your whole garden—basically go over your whole garden then actually if you still have product left, start over again and keep spraying the product down. It doesn’t matter if there’s actually more water than the product but what does matter is that you get the product down there even if it is more diluted. You need to get the quantity of microorganisms in your soil to be at a certain level to get the results and that’s the results on the package—unfortunately this Hudson sprayer is not set up to go that high. So, I’m just gonna go ahead and set it up to one tablespoon per galloon, turn this guy on and water my garden until we run out of product. So, never before has it been this easy to till your garden without renting a rototiller by just spraying on the beneficial microbes that are going to do the work for me. If you’re interested in learning more about this product be sure to click the link below this video that’ll take you to John and Bob’s website. And if your order the product be sure to use the discount code that I’ll actually put below the video to get a special low discounted price on this product. I have been using the John and Bob’s products for several years now. I believe in them confidently I mean they model my style of garden, which is fostering the beneficial microbes in the soil which are really the workhorses so you can have free labor working for you without paying anybody. Hope you guys enjoyed this episode once again my name is John Kohler, gotta get back to tilling my garden. With GrowingYourGreens.com, we’ll see you next time and remember keep on growing.

Genome and cell structure

Bacillus pumilus contains one circular chromosome including about 4000 genes and 3600-3900 proteins with varying length in the range of 3.7 to 3.8 Mbp. 41% of the DNA base pairs in B. pumilus are G-C. The cellular structure of B. pumilus is similar to other Bacillus species such as B. subtilis, B. megaterium, and B. cereus, the outer layer of the peptidoglycan cross-links in B. pumilus is covered by teichoic and lipoteichoic acids same as the most other Gram positive bacteria. These acids contain polyglycosyl phosphates with mono- and disaccharides as their monomers that can play a role in adhesion to different surfaces like the host cells.[5][6] On the other hand, these phosphate groups on the surface of B. pumilus can provide net negative charge on the cell surface that allowing to capture some essential cations such as Ca2+ and Mg2+ that are necessary for cell life.

Industrial use

Bacillus pumilus strain GB34 is used as an active ingredient in agricultural fungicides. Growth of the bacterium on plant roots prevents Rhizoctonia and Fusarium spores from germinating.[7]

Bacillus pumilus (ATCC 27142) may be utilized (as a biological indicator or 'BI' for short) to monitor Gamma, Electron Beam (E-beam), or X-ray radiation sterilization processes. However, the relevance of this practice has dwindled rapidly in the last 30 years due to the discovery of wild-type organisms, like Deinococcus radiodurans, that have proven to have higher D-values and have unseated B. pumilus as recognized worst-case radiation challenge organism. As such, the International Standards Organization (ISO) no longer recognizes B. pumilus as a BI method of validation or routine monitoring of a terminal radiation sterilization process for medical devices labeled as 'sterile'. Instead, parametric means are recognized, using dosimetry to monitor delivered radiation dose. The dose is established using information about the number and types of viable microbes in/on the product and/or its sterile barrier system packaging. The industry term for these microbes as they relate to a sterile medical device is bioburden. Bioburden information coupled with dosimetry and subsequent tests of sterility are collectively used to perform verification dose experiments, which validate the terminal radiation sterilization dose. This dose supports the sterility assurance level (SAL) claim made by the product and its manufacturer. Most medical devices possess an SAL claim of 10E-6, that is one-in-one-million probability of [at least] one microbe making it through the sterilization process. The unit of measure for radiation dose for this purpose is kilogray, and a common radiation sterilization dose is 25 kilogray (kGy); however less or more dose is also quite common, as backed by validation data.[8]

See also

References

  1. ^ Priest FG (1993) Systematics and Ecology of Bacillus. In: Sonenshein AL, Hoch JA, Losick R, editors. Bacillus subtilis and Other Gram-Positive Bacteria: Biochemistry, Physiology, and Molecular Genetics. Washington, D.C.: ASM Press. pp. 3–16.
  2. ^ "Pathema - Bacillus". J. Craig Venter Institute. Archived from the original on 2011-09-14. Retrieved 2011-11-17.
  3. ^ Kempf, MJ; Chen, F; Kern, R; Venkateswaran, K (June 2005). "Recurrent isolation of hydrogen peroxide-resistant spores of Bacillus pumilus from a spacecraft assembly facility". Astrobiology. 5 (3): 391–405. Bibcode:2005AsBio...5..391K. doi:10.1089/ast.2005.5.391. PMID 15941382.
  4. ^ Hill, J E; Baiano, J C F; Barnes, A C (1 December 2009). "Isolation of a novel strain of "B. pumilus" from penaeid shrimp that is inhibitory against marine pathogens". Journal of Fish Diseases. 32 (12): 1007–1016. doi:10.1111/j.1365-2761.2009.01084.x. PMID 19573134.
  5. ^ Parvathi A. “Biochemical and molecular characterization of Bacillus pumilus isolated fromcoastal environment in Cochin” India. Braz J Microbiol. 2009 (40) 269.
  6. ^ Potekhina N.V. “Phosphate Containing Cell Wall Polymers of Bacilli” Biochem 2011 (76) 745.
  7. ^ "Bacillus pumilus strain GB 34 (006493) Fact Sheet". United States Environmental Protection Agency. Archived from the original on 2012-01-08.
  8. ^ "Biological Indicators Catalog" (PDF). Sopex.hr. Retrieved 30 March 2022.

Further reading

Kaur, Amanjot; Singh, Avtar; Mahajan, Ritu (22 Jul 2014). "Characterization of industrially-valuable xylano-pectinolytic enzymes produced concurrently by a novel isolate of Bacillus pumilus". Biotechnology Letters. 36 (11): 2229–2237. doi:10.1007/s10529-014-1595-1. PMID 25048224. S2CID 254286755.

External links

This page was last edited on 9 January 2023, at 07:36
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