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Texas Barbecue refers to methods of preparation for barbecue unique to Texan cuisine. Beef brisket, pork ribs, and sausage are among the most commonly known dishes. The term can also include side dishes that are traditionally served alongside the smoked meats.[1]
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BBQ with Franklin: Pork Ribs part 1
Transcription
You're watching barbeque with franklin Im Aaron and today we're going to cook some pork spare ribs make a rub wrap em sauce em and then eat em it's rib time we're gonna start off by making a rub for these pork spare ribs one empty cup this is what i'm going to use to mix as usual salt pepper of course is the base for anything awesome in my book going to start off with about that much black pepper about half that amount of salt my general ratio for pepper to salt for pork ribs is two parts black pepper to one part salt they're really thin and their really easy to over salt that's kind of the basic thing and this is what we do here at the restaurant but salt and pepper is getting a little boring so we are going to throw some other stuff in there a little bit of chili powder not too much put a little bit of garlic powder if you do a onion powder or garlic powder you're going to want to do more of a granulated kind of thing if they're really powdery it's gonna settle and its going to clump kinda oddly i might even take a little bit so just sprinkle a little bit of that for some savory spices and a little bit of onion powder not too much and for color not so much for flavor im going to add some paprika paprika is pretty standard for rib rubs it'll give kind of a nice red color to it real simple kinda mix it up im only doing one rack of ribs so im not making much rub here but what i am going to do im going to pour it in a shaker get the rub on the ribs really really even unlike brisket and other things where you can just kinda throw the rub on there put it on the smoker there's not as much smoke that goes on a rack of ribs so i think it's a little more important to have a real even coat so you can see just pepper it doesn't look kinda splotchy you dont want it too heavy on the thin side you don't want it to light on the thick side and that's why i'm using a shaker just to keep it kind of lookin pretty now we've got our dry rib rub made we're going to trim some ribs so what you're looking for when you go the grocery store is you're looking for pork spare ribs not saint louis cut and not baby backs baby backs come from a different part of the pig little leaner meat and spare ribs typically have a lot more fat they're going to be a lot more moist they're going to have a lot more flavor a full spare has the breast bone attached right here so we're going to cut that off here in a second it's got anywhere between eleven to fourteen bones you can normally count on twelve and it's not trimmed if you look around here it's just it's got the bones and that it's got the cartilage and stuff in there it's not trimmed it's got the skirt on it and it's got kind of a tip right there what you're looking for ideally is something that has a lot of fat and you dont want it to look too lean but you want to be able to see some fat right there that kind of go with the grain that's going to be a lot of flavor it's going to render more moist ribs hopefully it won't dry out quite as quick if you'll notice here that this end is really thick if i was doing a competition my competition ribs would come from right here because those are the thick ones and they have the straightest bones but we're not doing competition we're going to eat this stuff so we're going to cook the whole thing and the knife i like to use is a ten inch actually its a nine and a half inch just chefs knife you're gonna be hacking through some bones and stuff so if you have a really nice delicate knife that's kinda thin you probably don't want to use it you can use a cleaver you could use a debba which is a japanese butcher knife that shaped like a chef's knife i use them pretty often but they they get kinda heavy when you're doing sixty of these things so i like to have a lightweight one with a thick blade lets get to trimming first thing we're going to do is square this up and there's kind of a baby little rib right there its probably gonna fall out while we are cooking it and it's probably gonna burn up anyway so im going to put my knuckles right there you're gonna lose it regardless i kinda flip it around like that you can slide your knife a little bit and it'll hit something right there gonna cut like that kinda go through and there is cartledge right there if you feel something that's pretty crunchy there are little pieces of bones that go through there if you hit something just kinda go a little farther in until the coast is clear get rid of that or you could save it to use it for uh... beans or if you wanna make a pork or something you can certainly do that and this is what they kind of call a kansas city cut and that's a full spare minus the breast bone what i normally do is i just box off a little bit i get all the rough edges off because you kinda figure if something is sticking out it's going to burn any way kinda hit the skirt and the reason why i cut this off this is a great piece of meat if you want to use it for somethin great i normally dont if you dont cut it off when it heats up its going to pull up anyways so you'll have rub you'll have smokey color all over this part and then you'll have a bald patch right there you don't really want that grab that point and flip it around we've got this and if you like bacon or anything this is where the pork belly is the pork belly is just the fatty back side of this so this meat's pretty good right here it's got a lot of fat but i always trim that off could've been a snack but it's not trim that off because after it's cooked when say if i'm having a lunch service and i'm cutting these things if i left that piece of meat on there the fat woiuld cook out from between the two pieces of meat and they would just slide right off on the board and that's not very attractive and it's not going to have any bark on it thing is we like bark trim it off a little bit so while you're doing all of this got it kinda trimmed run your hands across the bones right there a lot of times if you're getting mass-produced ribs from various companies or even smaller companies when they run these things through a saw they will go too fast and chip the bones sometime now we've got our pork spare ribs trimmed up got breast bone off got it trimmed up nicely skirts trimmed back little piece of fat is cut off the back we're going to pull off the membrane here at the barbeque place i dont pull off the membranes but most people do they definitely turn out better ribs and if you know we got a couple racks you might as well pull them off and what the membrane is its exactly a membrane it's a membrane goes right here its going to be on the inside of the rack of ribs kinda protects the the muscles from the organs and kinda the stuff we're not gonna cook to get that off take a little knife kinda get under there a little bit and kinda peel it up just a little bit tipically butter knives work really good if you have a butter knife i'm right handed so im going to flip it around that way it gets really really slippery so grab you some paper towels that'll help you grip it kinda go to town hopefully it will come off in one big strip if you're lucky oh i like getting lucky it's a pretty nice looking rack of pork ribs got the breast bone off the skirt off the membrane pulled off unfortunately we've got a few bones poking through right here we've got a little term for that its called shiners what shiner typically refers to the other side but in this case its this side not much you can do about it just going to have to kinda deal with it it's an imperfect meat well barbeque is an imperfect thing to cook anyway i think we are ready to put a rub on so we've got our rub made going to open that up just a little bit i always like using a shaker for ribs instead of using a cup or like a hand and throwing it on i think it's a lot more important to have a nice presentation with pork ribs because it's more delicate meat but we need something to make the rub stick i like to use olive oil normally i use a squirt bottle just put a little bit on there useing olive oil is pretty awesome for steaks or really any kind of meat if you're going to grill somethin it's really a pretty great way to start off anything i think it's great for tri tip kinda rub it down just a little bit flip it over get the other side not too much just enough to make the rub stick that's kind of the thing with brisket i don't do anything like this because there's so much blood that comes with the brisket it makes the rub stick anyway the ribs dont really necessarily have a whole lot of blood they don't really have a whole lot going on anyway so we got to add some stuff to it i like to do the meat side first if you've got granules that are of different size you want to keep it moving all the time so something doesnt settle to the bottom and something doesnt end up too salty salt normally settles towards the bottom so i put the holes up top when i'm holding it so kinda sprinkle it on there and i like to look at a lot of pepper i think that looks pretty good if you'll notice that its really even there's no splotchiness i didn't get too much here i didn't get too little here i think it's pretty good if you've got ribs that are really really thin be careful with the salt cuz it doesn't take much salt to get it in there delicately flip it over for this side and it's just me being a little OCD perhaps but i typically do the rub that way so if there is a streak it's actually going parallel to the bones doesn't really make any sense or mean anything so there you go we'll put this puppy on
History
Native Americans had been slow cooking meat before European settlement. People began this tradition of barbecue in North America before the 1500s, long before Central Europeans arrived in central Texas. European meat-smoking traditions were brought to Central Texas by German and Czech settlers during the mid-19th century. Traditionally, butchers would smoke the leftover meat that had not been sold, allowing it to be stored longer without spoiling. As these leftovers became popular among the migrants in the area, multiple meat markets began to specialize in smoked meats.[citation needed]
According to Daniel Vaughn, barbecue editor at Texas Monthly, Southside Market & Barbeque is the oldest barbecue joint in Texas still in operation. The restaurant opened in 1886.[2]
In 1964, President Lyndon B. Johnson hosted a state dinner featuring barbecue for the Mexican president-elect in Johnson City, Texas. This was the first barbecue state dinner in the history of the United States.[3]
In 2019, J. C. Reid of the Houston Chronicle wrote that pulled pork barbecue was becoming common in Texas despite having originated in a different region.[4]
Styles and variations
Texas barbecue traditions differ Geographically and culturally: East Texas, Central Texas, South Texas, and West Texas each have their own unique barbecue styles. Of these various styles, the Central and East Texas varieties are considered to be the most well-known.[5][6]
The different kinds of Texas barbecue can be distinguished as follows:[5]
- East Texas style—the meat is slowly cooked to the point that it is "falling off the bone." It is typically cooked over hickory wood and marinated in a sweet, tomato-based sauce.
- Central Texas style—the meat is typically rubbed with only salt and black pepper (though some restaurants have been known to use other spices), then cooked over indirect heat from pecan, post oak, or mesquite wood. Sauce is typically considered unnecessary, but it may be served on the side to complement the meat.
- West Texas style—the meat is cooked over direct heat from mesquite wood in a method very similar to grilling.[7]
- South Texas style—the meat is marinated in thick, molasses-like sauces that keep the meat moist after cooking.
Another style of barbecue, barbacoa, is characteristic of South Texas and the Rio Grande valley near the Mexico–United States border.
Barbacoa is a traditional Mexican form of barbecue that typically uses goat, lamb, or sheep meat, although beef is also sometimes used.[8] In its most authentic form, barbacoa is prepared in a hole dug in the ground and covered in maguey (Agave americana) leaves.[3]
East Texas
East Texas barbecue is usually chopped rather than sliced. It may be made of either beef or pork. It is usually served on a bun.[9]
In "Texas Barbecue in Black and White," Robb Walsh writes that African-American varieties of barbecue in East Texas favored beef rather than pork due to its prevalence in the region. Walsh quotes an artist, Bert Long, who states that African-American varieties are heavily smoked.[10]
According to Reid, the presence of pork ribs in East Texas barbecue originated from elsewhere in the South.[4] According to Walsh, the origins date back to when barbecues were held for slaves.[11] Many Black restaurant owners, in 1910, struggled as food-safety regulations passed throughout Texas restricted the operation of their restaurants. Later on, the widespread implementation of a new innovation, the cinder block pit, allowed Black restaurateurs to serve their fellow Black customers.[12]
In a 1973 Texas Monthly article, Griffin Smith, Jr. describes East Texas barbecue as an "extension" of barbecue served in the Southern United States and says that beef and pork appear equally in the cuisine.[9] According to Smith, the style's emphasis on sauces and spices originated from a time when African-Americans received poor-quality cuts of meat that needed flavoring.[6] According to Smith, the "finest manifestations" of this style were found in African-American-operated restaurants.[9] Smith further describes East Texas barbecue as "...a chopped pork sandwich with hot sauce..."[6]
Central Texas
The Central Texas pit-style barbecue was established in the 19th century along the Chisholm Trail in the towns of Lockhart, Luling, and Taylor. European immigrants, who owned meat-packing plants, opened retail meat markets serving cooked meats wrapped in red butcher paper, a tradition that persists in many Central Texas towns. This barbecue style's popularity has spread considerably around the world, especially to Southern California, New York City, Britain, and Australia.[citation needed]
At a typical Central Texas pit-style barbecue restaurant, customers take a cafeteria-style tray and are served by a butcher who carves the meat by weight. Barbecue meats are commonly sold by the pound.
Next, side dishes and desserts including slices of white bread, crinkle-cut dill pickle chips, sliced onion, jalapeño, and corn bread are picked up along the line.
This style of barbecue emphasizes the meat, so if sauce is available, it is usually considered a side to dip into.[6] Calvin Trillin, writing in The New Yorker, said that discussions of Central Texas pit barbecue do not concern the piquancy of the sauces or common side dishes and desserts—the main consideration is the quality of the cooking of the meats.[13]
Smith argues that the lack of focus on sauces is due to the fact that noon meat markets were once dominated by upper-class purchasers who could choose from the highest quality cuts of meat and had little interest in sauces.
He also states that many sauces in Central Texas pit barbecue are intentionally made "bland" in comparison to the flavor of the meats themselves.[6] The sauce is typically thinner, lightly spiced and unsweetened, as opposed to the Kansas City and Memphis styles, which rely heavily on molasses or sugar to provide thickness and sweetness.
In 2010, Jayne Clark of USA Today described the "Texas Barbecue Trail", an East-of-Austin "semi-loop" including Elgin, Lockhart, Luling, and Taylor. Barbecue eateries in this semi-loop, such as Louie Mueller Barbecue, are within an hour from Austin running from northeast to the southeast.[14]
Other styles
West Texas barbecue, sometimes called "cowboy style," traditionally uses a more direct heating method than other styles. Food is generally cooked over mesquite, granting it a distinct, smoky flavor that is different from other wood-smoked styles.[15]
Barbecue in the border area between the South Texas Plains and Northern Mexico is mostly influenced by Mexican cuisine. Historically, this area was the birthplace of the Texas ranching tradition. Often, Mexican farmhands were partially paid for their work with less-desirable cuts of meat, such as the diaphragm and the cow's head. It is the cow's head that defines South Texas barbecue (called barbacoa). The head would be wrapped in wet maguey leaves and buried in a pit with hot coals for several hours, after which the meat would be pulled off for barbacoa tacos. The tongue would also be used to make lengua tacos. Today, this barbecue is mostly cooked in an oven in a bain-marie.[16]
See also
References
- ^ Siciliano-Rosen, Laura (December 14, 2015). "Texas barbecue". Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved January 30, 2020.
- ^ Vaughn, Daniel (November 1, 2021). "A Barbecue Nerd's Guide to the Most Historic Joints in Texas". Texas Monthly. Retrieved February 3, 2022.
- ^ a b Walsh, Robb (2002). Legends of Texas Barbecue Cookbook: Recipes and Recollections from the Pit Bosses. San Francisco: Chronicle Books. p. 29. ISBN 978-0-8118-2961-8. Retrieved November 17, 2015.
- ^ a b Reid, J.C. (May 10, 2019). "Pulled pork is no longer an afterthought on Texas barbecue menus". Houston Chronicle. Retrieved July 3, 2019.
- ^ a b San Antonio, Austin, & the Hill Country. New York: Fodor's. 2008. p. 151. ISBN 978-1-4000-0718-9. Retrieved November 17, 2015.
- ^ a b c d e Smith, Griffin Jr. (April 1973). "The World's Best Barbecue Is in Taylor, Texas. Or Is It Lockhart?". Texas Monthly. Vol. 1, no. 3. p. 40. ISSN 0148-7736. Retrieved January 30, 2020.
- ^ Gentile, Dan (December 8, 2015). "Everything You Need to Know About Texas BBQ". Thrillist. Retrieved December 5, 2019.
- ^ "Vera's: The Last Bastion of South Texas Barbacoa". Texas Monthly. May 21, 2013. Retrieved December 16, 2019.
- ^ a b c Smith, Griffin Jr. (April 1973). "The World's Best Barbecue Is in Taylor, Texas. Or Is It Lockhart?". Texas Monthly. Vol. 1, no. 3. p. 38. ISSN 0148-7736. Retrieved January 30, 2020.
- ^ Walsh, Robb. "Texas Barbecue in Black and White". In: Elie, Lolis Eric (ed.). Cornbread Nation 2: The United States of Barbecue. University of North Carolina Press, January 27, 2010. p. 57.
- ^ Walsh, Robb. "Texas Barbecue in Black and White". In: Elie, Lolis Eric (editor). Cornbread Nation 2: The United States of Barbecue. University of North Carolina Press, January 27, 2010. p. 58.
- ^ Walsh, Robb. "Texas Barbecue in Black and White". In: Elie, Lolis Eric (editor). Cornbread Nation 2: The United States of Barbecue. University of North Carolina Press, January 27, 2010. pp. 58–59.
- ^ "By Meat Alone". The New Yorker. November 24, 2008. Retrieved November 17, 2015.
- ^ Clark, Jayne (May 27, 2010). "Hot on the trail of some smokin' Texas barbecue". USA Today. Retrieved November 17, 2015.
- ^ Vaughn, Daniel (April 7, 2016). "The Definitive Texas Barbecue Style Guide". Thrillist. Retrieved December 5, 2019.
- ^ Walsh, Robb (2011). The Tex-Mex Grill and Backyard Barbecue Cookbook: More than 85 Sizzling Recipes. Berkeley, Calif.: Ten Speed Press. ISBN 9781607743729. OCLC 794763753. Retrieved January 30, 2020.
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This page was last edited on 27 July 2023, at 23:10