Masherbrum

Masherbrum
K1
Masherbrum, July 2004
Highest point
Elevation	7,821 m (25,659 ft)^[1] Ranked 22nd
Prominence	2,457 m (8,061 ft)^[1]
Listing	Ultra
Coordinates	35°38′24″N 76°18′21″E / 35.64000°N 76.30583°E / 35.64000; 76.30583^[1]
Naming
Native name	ما شربرم (Urdu)
Geography
Masherbrum Location in Gilgit-Baltistan Show map of India Masherbrum Masherbrum (Gilgit Baltistan) Show map of Gilgit Baltistan
Location	Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan
Parent range	Karakoram
Climbing
First ascent	1960 by George Bell and Willi Unsoeld
Easiest route	glacier/snow/ice climb

Masherbrum (Urdu: ما شربرم ; formerly known as K1) is a mountain located in the Ghanche District in the Gilgit Baltistan region of Pakistan. With an elevation of 7,821 meters (25,659 feet), it ranks as the 22nd highest mountain globally and the 9th highest in Pakistan. It holds the distinction of being the first mapped peak in the Karakoram mountain range during the Great Trigonometrical Survey, leading to its K-number designation as "K1".^[2]

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Etymology

The etymology of the name "Masherbrum" is indeed a subject of some debate and uncertainty. While "brum" is understood to mean "mountain" in Balti, the origin of "masher" remains less clear. One suggestion is that it may come from "Mashedar," which means a muzzle-loader, possibly alluding to the distinctive curvature or shape of its summit as observed from the Baltoro Glacier.^[3] However, the exact origin of the name may still be open to interpretation and further research.

In India, this mountain peak is known as "Mahasherbaram", which comes from Sanskrit word referring to "The White Tiger"

In Persia, "masheh" means both matchlock and trigger, and "dar" is a suffix meaning "having". Others have noted that "Masha" means lady, and "Masherbrum" is the "Queen of Peaks". Still others have noted that "Masher" means "no sunlight", in reference to the year-round snow cover at the summit.^{[citation needed]}

Geography

Masherbrum is the highest peak of the Masherbrum Mountains, a subrange of the Karakoram range. It is a large and striking peak, which is somewhat overshadowed by the nearby 8,000 metres (26,000 ft) peaks of the main range of the Karakoram which includes four of the fourteen Eight-thousanders, namely K2, Gasherbrum I, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum II.

The Masherbrum Mountains lie to the south of the Baltoro Glacier and the main range of the Karakoram lies to the north of the Baltoro. The main range is the continental divide of southern Asia. Rivers to the south flow into the Arabian Sea. Rivers to the north flow into the Tarim Basin.

The Baltoro Glacier is the route most commonly used to access the 8000m peaks of the Karakoram, and many trekkers also travel on the Baltoro. Masherbrum also lies at the north end of the Hushe Valley, which serves as the southern approach to the peak.^{[citation needed]}

Climbing history

In 1856, Thomas Montgomerie, a British Royal Engineers lieutenant, noticed a tall mountain in the Karakorams and called it K1 (denoting peak 1 of the Karakorams; K2 was the name he gave to the nearby peak behind K1 when viewed from Harmukh). To the local people of the area, it is known as Masherbrum.

Masherbrum was reconnoitered in 1911 by Fanny Bullock Workman and her husband, Dr. William H. Workman.^{[citation needed]} It was first attempted in 1938 from the south, by a group led by James Waller which included Dawa Thondup and J. O. M. Roberts. The attempt failed just short of the summit, when J.B. Harrison and R.A. Hodgkin, severely frostbitten, had to return due to bad weather.^[4]

After two more failed expeditions, in 1955 and 1957, Masherbrum was first climbed in 1960 by George Irving Bell and Willi Unsoeld, led by the former, in an American-Pakistani expedition including Nick Clinch.^[5] They succeeded in climbing the southeast face route that had stymied the earlier parties.

The Himalayan Index lists three additional ascents and six additional failed attempts on Masherbrum. The ascents include two by additional routes, the NW Face and the NW Ridge/N Face.

In her book, Voyage au Bout du Vide: Une Cordėe Alpine au Masherbrum, the French mountaineer Christine de Colombel provides a dramatic account of her 1980 attempt, with David Belden, to ascend Masherbrum in alpine style. Their three-month expedition, bedeviled by bad weather, ended in failure when avalanches swept their camp and injured de Colombel, leading to a desperate three-day retreat in whiteout conditions.

References

^ ^a ^b ^c "High Asia I: The Karakoram, Himalaya and India Himalaya (north of Nepal)". Peaklist.org. Retrieved 2014-05-27.
^ Curran, Jim (1995). K2: The Story of the Savage Mountain. ISBN 0898864550.
^ Carter, H. Adams. "AAC Publications - Balti Place Names in the Karakoram". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-03-13.
^ Roberts, J. O. M. (1939). "The Attempt on Masherbrum, 1938". Himalayan Journal. 11.
^ In Memoriam section Archived September 27, 2007, at the Wayback Machine of the American Alpine Journal, 2001

Sources

H. Adams Carter, "Balti Place Names in the Karakoram", American Alpine Journal 49 (1975), p. 53.
Jill Neate, High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks, ISBN 0-89886-238-8
Himalayan Index