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List of homesteads in Western Australia: G

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

This list includes all homesteads in Western Australia with a gazetted name. It is complete with respect to the 1996 Gazetteer of Australia.[1] Dubious names have been checked against the online 2004 data,[2] and in all cases confirmed correct. However, if any homesteads have been gazetted or deleted since 1996, this list does not reflect these changes. Strictly speaking, Australian place names are gazetted in capital letters only; the names in this list have been converted to mixed case in accordance with normal capitalisation conventions.


Name Location Remarks
Gabatepe 33°32′S 117°23′E / 33.533°S 117.383°E / -33.533; 117.383 (Gabatepe)
Gabbyquoiquoi 31°2′S 116°50′E / 31.033°S 116.833°E / -31.033; 116.833 (Gabbyquoiquoi)
Gabyinda 33°42′S 117°6′E / 33.700°S 117.100°E / -33.700; 117.100 (Gabyinda)
Gabyon 28°15′S 116°21′E / 28.250°S 116.350°E / -28.250; 116.350 (Gabyon)
Gadara 34°23′S 119°9′E / 34.383°S 119.150°E / -34.383; 119.150 (Gadara)
Gadara 29°8′S 114°54′E / 29.133°S 114.900°E / -29.133; 114.900 (Gadara)
Gairdner 34°13′S 119°4′E / 34.217°S 119.067°E / -34.217; 119.067 (Gairdner)
Gale Hill 33°56′S 115°48′E / 33.933°S 115.800°E / -33.933; 115.800 (Gale Hill)
Galil 34°34′S 118°24′E / 34.567°S 118.400°E / -34.567; 118.400 (Galil)
Galyn 33°40′S 115°9′E / 33.667°S 115.150°E / -33.667; 115.150 (Galyn)
Gamerigg 34°35′S 117°32′E / 34.583°S 117.533°E / -34.583; 117.533 (Gamerigg)
Gandergobbler 33°47′S 117°45′E / 33.783°S 117.750°E / -33.783; 117.750 (Gandergobbler)
Gannawarra 33°40′S 117°26′E / 33.667°S 117.433°E / -33.667; 117.433 (Gannawarra)
Ganya 33°15′S 115°46′E / 33.250°S 115.767°E / -33.250; 115.767 (Ganya)
Garden Valley 33°38′S 117°31′E / 33.633°S 117.517°E / -33.633; 117.517 (Garden Valley)
Garinga 34°20′S 117°28′E / 34.333°S 117.467°E / -34.333; 117.467 (Garinga)
Garthowan 33°43′S 117°5′E / 33.717°S 117.083°E / -33.717; 117.083 (Garthowan)
Gaylands 33°54′S 118°28′E / 33.900°S 118.467°E / -33.900; 118.467 (Gaylands)
Gaythorne 34°24′S 116°8′E / 34.400°S 116.133°E / -34.400; 116.133 (Gaythorne)
Gee Gie Outcamp 27°21′S 114°8′E / 27.350°S 114.133°E / -27.350; 114.133 (Gee Gie Outcamp)
Geebin 32°35′S 117°0′E / 32.583°S 117.000°E / -32.583; 117.000 (Geebin)
Geekabee Downs 34°19′S 117°25′E / 34.317°S 117.417°E / -34.317; 117.417 (Geekabee Downs)
Gefn 32°16′S 118°11′E / 32.267°S 118.183°E / -32.267; 118.183 (Gefn)
Gembira 29°9′S 114°54′E / 29.150°S 114.900°E / -29.150; 114.900 (Gembira)
Genarling 32°28′S 117°43′E / 32.467°S 117.717°E / -32.467; 117.717 (Genarling)
Geodlin 32°27′S 117°59′E / 32.450°S 117.983°E / -32.450; 117.983 (Geodlin)
Geovon 33°41′S 122°31′E / 33.683°S 122.517°E / -33.683; 122.517 (Geovon)
Geraldine 29°13′S 115°17′E / 29.217°S 115.283°E / -29.217; 115.283 (Geraldine)
Gerbryn 33°48′S 122°14′E / 33.800°S 122.233°E / -33.800; 122.233 (Gerbryn)
Gerby 33°48′S 122°15′E / 33.800°S 122.250°E / -33.800; 122.250 (Gerby)
Gevalwin 34°30′S 116°57′E / 34.500°S 116.950°E / -34.500; 116.950 (Gevalwin)
Ghezireh 33°13′S 115°49′E / 33.217°S 115.817°E / -33.217; 115.817 (Ghezireh)
Ghirrawheen 33°41′S 117°49′E / 33.683°S 117.817°E / -33.683; 117.817 (Ghirrawheen)
Gibb River 16°26′S 126°26′E / 16.433°S 126.433°E / -16.433; 126.433 (Gibb River)
Gibb Rock 32°5′S 119°6′E / 32.083°S 119.100°E / -32.083; 119.100 (Gibb Rock)
Gidgea Outcamp 24°58′S 114°22′E / 24.967°S 114.367°E / -24.967; 114.367 (Gidgea Outcamp)
Gidgee 27°15′S 119°24′E / 27.250°S 119.400°E / -27.250; 119.400 (Gidgee)
Gidgelbarrup 33°37′S 117°53′E / 33.617°S 117.883°E / -33.617; 117.883 (Gidgelbarrup)
Gidgie 34°2′S 118°6′E / 34.033°S 118.100°E / -34.033; 118.100 (Gidgie)
Gifford Creek 24°3′S 116°13′E / 24.050°S 116.217°E / -24.050; 116.217 (Gifford Creek)
Gilgering 32°2′S 116°48′E / 32.033°S 116.800°E / -32.033; 116.800 (Gilgering)
Gillespie 34°2′S 115°9′E / 34.033°S 115.150°E / -34.033; 115.150 (Gillespie)
Gillimanning 32°39′S 117°25′E / 32.650°S 117.417°E / -32.650; 117.417 (Gillimanning)
Gilroyd 25°49′S 115°11′E / 25.817°S 115.183°E / -25.817; 115.183 (Gilroyd)
Gimlet Park 29°30′S 115°57′E / 29.500°S 115.950°E / -29.500; 115.950 (Gimlet Park)
Gimlet Park 31°30′S 118°23′E / 31.500°S 118.383°E / -31.500; 118.383 (Gimlet Park)
Ginara 31°20′S 115°51′E / 31.333°S 115.850°E / -31.333; 115.850 (Ginara)
Ginawarra 29°41′S 116°2′E / 29.683°S 116.033°E / -29.683; 116.033 (Ginawarra)
Ginawarra 29°9′S 115°5′E / 29.150°S 115.083°E / -29.150; 115.083 (Ginawarra)
Gindalbie 30°17′S 121°45′E / 30.283°S 121.750°E / -30.283; 121.750 (Gindalbie)
Giralia 22°41′S 114°22′E / 22.683°S 114.367°E / -22.683; 114.367 (Giralia)
Giraween 33°47′S 118°7′E / 33.783°S 118.117°E / -33.783; 118.117 (Giraween)
Girraween 30°34′S 115°49′E / 30.567°S 115.817°E / -30.567; 115.817 (Girraween)
Girraween 33°38′S 119°22′E / 33.633°S 119.367°E / -33.633; 119.367 (Girraween)
Girraween 34°6′S 116°57′E / 34.100°S 116.950°E / -34.100; 116.950 (Girraween)
Girrawheen 34°57′S 117°28′E / 34.950°S 117.467°E / -34.950; 117.467 (Girrawheen)
Glainorie 34°15′S 118°4′E / 34.250°S 118.067°E / -34.250; 118.067 (Glainorie)
Glanville 34°4′S 117°32′E / 34.067°S 117.533°E / -34.067; 117.533 (Glanville)
Glen 27°3′S 117°34′E / 27.050°S 117.567°E / -27.050; 117.567 (Glen)
Glen Aire 33°52′S 115°10′E / 33.867°S 115.167°E / -33.867; 115.167 (Glen Aire)
Glen Albyn 33°31′S 115°32′E / 33.517°S 115.533°E / -33.517; 115.533 (Glen Albyn)
Glen Allen 34°2′S 118°9′E / 34.033°S 118.150°E / -34.033; 118.150 (Glen Allen)
Glen Almond 33°57′S 117°53′E / 33.950°S 117.883°E / -33.950; 117.883 (Glen Almond)
Glen Alvon 33°16′S 117°27′E / 33.267°S 117.450°E / -33.267; 117.450 (Glen Alvon)
Glen Avon 31°42′S 116°32′E / 31.700°S 116.533°E / -31.700; 116.533 (Glen Avon)
Glen Avon 31°37′S 116°32′E / 31.617°S 116.533°E / -31.617; 116.533 (Glen Avon)
Glen Avon 30°49′S 116°51′E / 30.817°S 116.850°E / -30.817; 116.850 (Glen Avon)
Glen Avon 33°11′S 115°51′E / 33.183°S 115.850°E / -33.183; 115.850 (Glen Avon)
Glen Beigh 34°31′S 117°6′E / 34.517°S 117.100°E / -34.517; 117.100 (Glen Beigh)
Glen Candy 34°57′S 117°59′E / 34.950°S 117.983°E / -34.950; 117.983 (Glen Candy)
Glen Darran 31°38′S 116°7′E / 31.633°S 116.117°E / -31.633; 116.117 (Glen Darran)
Glen Devon 33°45′S 116°37′E / 33.750°S 116.617°E / -33.750; 116.617 (Glen Devon)
Glen Dunley 33°51′S 115°58′E / 33.850°S 115.967°E / -33.850; 115.967 (Glen Dunley)
Glen Echo 34°56′S 117°59′E / 34.933°S 117.983°E / -34.933; 117.983 (Glen Echo)
Glen Ellen 34°22′S 118°24′E / 34.367°S 118.400°E / -34.367; 118.400 (Glen Ellen)
Glen Ervine 32°0′S 116°50′E / 32.000°S 116.833°E / -32.000; 116.833 (Glen Ervine)
Glen Florrie 22°56′S 115°59′E / 22.933°S 115.983°E / -22.933; 115.983 (Glen Florrie)
Glen Florrie Homestead 22°56′S 115°59′E / 22.933°S 115.983°E / -22.933; 115.983 (Glen Florrie Homestead)
Glen Hill 16°33′S 128°21′E / 16.550°S 128.350°E / -16.550; 128.350 (Glen Hill)
Glen Idle 34°16′S 119°25′E / 34.267°S 119.417°E / -34.267; 119.417 (Glen Idle)
Glen Innes 33°33′S 117°28′E / 33.550°S 117.467°E / -33.550; 117.467 (Glen Innes)
Glen Innes 29°3′S 116°1′E / 29.050°S 116.017°E / -29.050; 116.017 (Glen Innes)
Glen Iris 32°24′S 117°4′E / 32.400°S 117.067°E / -32.400; 117.067 (Glen Iris)
Glen Irwin 31°59′S 116°51′E / 31.983°S 116.850°E / -31.983; 116.850 (Glen Irwin)
Glen Isla 33°38′S 121°16′E / 33.633°S 121.267°E / -33.633; 121.267 (Glen Isla)
Glen Karaleda 32°11′S 116°53′E / 32.183°S 116.883°E / -32.183; 116.883 (Glen Karaleda)
Glen Karaleea 33°33′S 115°50′E / 33.550°S 115.833°E / -33.550; 115.833 (Glen Karaleea)
Glen Karri 34°5′S 115°6′E / 34.083°S 115.100°E / -34.083; 115.100 (Glen Karri)
Glen Maureena 33°45′S 121°17′E / 33.750°S 121.283°E / -33.750; 121.283 (Glen Maureena)
Glen Morrel 32°29′S 117°27′E / 32.483°S 117.450°E / -32.483; 117.450 (Glen Morrel)
Glen Oaklands 34°4′S 117°2′E / 34.067°S 117.033°E / -34.067; 117.033 (Glen Oaklands)
Glen Omrah 32°48′S 118°1′E / 32.800°S 118.017°E / -32.800; 118.017 (Glen Omrah)
Glen Onie 34°38′S 117°45′E / 34.633°S 117.750°E / -34.633; 117.750 (Glen Onie)
Glen Raven 33°39′S 119°47′E / 33.650°S 119.783°E / -33.650; 119.783 (Glen Raven)
Glen Robin 33°7′S 117°35′E / 33.117°S 117.583°E / -33.117; 117.583 (Glen Robin)
Glen Ruff 30°36′S 115°54′E / 30.600°S 115.900°E / -30.600; 115.900 (Glen Ruff)
Glen Turret 34°12′S 118°12′E / 34.200°S 118.200°E / -34.200; 118.200 (Glen Turret)
Glen Valley 33°47′S 121°34′E / 33.783°S 121.567°E / -33.783; 121.567 (Glen Valley)
Glen Valley 32°24′S 116°41′E / 32.400°S 116.683°E / -32.400; 116.683 (Glen Valley)
Glen View 34°13′S 115°10′E / 34.217°S 115.167°E / -34.217; 115.167 (Glen View)
Glen Waddi 29°54′S 116°11′E / 29.900°S 116.183°E / -29.900; 116.183 (Glen Waddi)
Glen-ayle 25°16′S 122°3′E / 25.267°S 122.050°E / -25.267; 122.050 (Glen-ayle)
Glen-burnie 29°56′S 115°24′E / 29.933°S 115.400°E / -29.933; 115.400 (Glen-burnie)
Glenalan 31°13′S 116°11′E / 31.217°S 116.183°E / -31.217; 116.183 (Glenalan)
Glenalbyn 33°31′S 115°32′E / 33.517°S 115.533°E / -33.517; 115.533 (Glenalbyn)
Glenalbyn 33°44′S 117°30′E / 33.733°S 117.500°E / -33.733; 117.500 (Glenalbyn)
Glenalta 33°39′S 115°59′E / 33.650°S 115.983°E / -33.650; 115.983 (Glenalta)
Glenarchy 34°25′S 116°49′E / 34.417°S 116.817°E / -34.417; 116.817 (Glenarchy)
Glenbourne 33°55′S 115°1′E / 33.917°S 115.017°E / -33.917; 115.017 (Glenbourne)
Glenbrook 33°26′S 115°45′E / 33.433°S 115.750°E / -33.433; 115.750 (Glenbrook)
Glenbrook 33°26′S 116°52′E / 33.433°S 116.867°E / -33.433; 116.867 (Glenbrook)
Glenbrook 31°13′S 116°23′E / 31.217°S 116.383°E / -31.217; 116.383 (Glenbrook)
Glenburgh 25°26′S 116°7′E / 25.433°S 116.117°E / -25.433; 116.117 (Glenburgh)
Glenburn 34°29′S 117°2′E / 34.483°S 117.033°E / -34.483; 117.033 (Glenburn)
Glenburn 33°27′S 117°3′E / 33.450°S 117.050°E / -33.450; 117.050 (Glenburn)
Glenburnie 32°28′S 117°50′E / 32.467°S 117.833°E / -32.467; 117.833 (Glenburnie)
Glenburnie 33°7′S 115°52′E / 33.117°S 115.867°E / -33.117; 115.867 (Glenburnie)
Glenburnie 28°45′S 114°52′E / 28.750°S 114.867°E / -28.750; 114.867 (Glenburnie)
Glencoe 31°17′S 115°46′E / 31.283°S 115.767°E / -31.283; 115.767 (Glencoe)
Glencoe 33°38′S 115°58′E / 33.633°S 115.967°E / -33.633; 115.967 (Glencoe)
Glencoe 31°13′S 116°14′E / 31.217°S 116.233°E / -31.217; 116.233 (Glencoe)
Glencoe 34°37′S 117°38′E / 34.617°S 117.633°E / -34.617; 117.633 (Glencoe)
Glencoe 32°34′S 116°57′E / 32.567°S 116.950°E / -32.567; 116.950 (Glencoe)
Glencoe 33°56′S 117°59′E / 33.933°S 117.983°E / -33.933; 117.983 (Glencoe)
Glencoe 33°37′S 123°52′E / 33.617°S 123.867°E / -33.617; 123.867 (Glencoe) Ruin
Glenculter 33°1′S 119°52′E / 33.017°S 119.867°E / -33.017; 119.867 (Glenculter)
Glendale 33°55′S 117°12′E / 33.917°S 117.200°E / -33.917; 117.200 (Glendale)
Glendale 32°35′S 117°8′E / 32.583°S 117.133°E / -32.583; 117.133 (Glendale)
Glendale 31°39′S 116°2′E / 31.650°S 116.033°E / -31.650; 116.033 (Glendale)
Glendale 33°57′S 116°28′E / 33.950°S 116.467°E / -33.950; 116.467 (Glendale)
Glendale Farm 34°1′S 119°1′E / 34.017°S 119.017°E / -34.017; 119.017 (Glendale Farm)
Glendale Farm 33°43′S 115°4′E / 33.717°S 115.067°E / -33.717; 115.067 (Glendale Farm)
Glenders 31°28′S 116°37′E / 31.467°S 116.617°E / -31.467; 116.617 (Glenders)
Glendew 31°30′S 116°5′E / 31.500°S 116.083°E / -31.500; 116.083 (Glendew)
Glendor 33°31′S 117°41′E / 33.517°S 117.683°E / -33.517; 117.683 (Glendor)
Glendower 33°11′S 117°24′E / 33.183°S 117.400°E / -33.183; 117.400 (Glendower)
Gleneden 33°40′S 115°35′E / 33.667°S 115.583°E / -33.667; 115.583 (Gleneden)
Glenelg 34°18′S 118°17′E / 34.300°S 118.283°E / -34.300; 118.283 (Glenelg)
Glenelg 33°40′S 116°36′E / 33.667°S 116.600°E / -33.667; 116.600 (Glenelg)
Glenelg 33°37′S 117°48′E / 33.617°S 117.800°E / -33.617; 117.800 (Glenelg)
Glenelg 33°45′S 117°1′E / 33.750°S 117.017°E / -33.750; 117.017 (Glenelg)
Glenelg 33°49′S 117°0′E / 33.817°S 117.000°E / -33.817; 117.000 (Glenelg)
Glenellerup 34°31′S 117°3′E / 34.517°S 117.050°E / -34.517; 117.050 (Glenellerup)
Glenercott 33°56′S 117°34′E / 33.933°S 117.567°E / -33.933; 117.567 (Glenercott)
Glenern 33°11′S 119°6′E / 33.183°S 119.100°E / -33.183; 119.100 (Glenern)
Glenerne 32°32′S 116°56′E / 32.533°S 116.933°E / -32.533; 116.933 (Glenerne)
Glenewin 32°1′S 116°58′E / 32.017°S 116.967°E / -32.017; 116.967 (Glenewin)
Gleneyle 34°0′S 115°2′E / 34.000°S 115.033°E / -34.000; 115.033 (Gleneyle)
Glenfern 33°34′S 117°48′E / 33.567°S 117.800°E / -33.567; 117.800 (Glenfern)
Glenfillan 34°7′S 116°48′E / 34.117°S 116.800°E / -34.117; 116.800 (Glenfillan)
Glenford 33°58′S 116°4′E / 33.967°S 116.067°E / -33.967; 116.067 (Glenford)
Glengarie 33°28′S 116°40′E / 33.467°S 116.667°E / -33.467; 116.667 (Glengarie)
Glengarry 33°48′S 117°43′E / 33.800°S 117.717°E / -33.800; 117.717 (Glengarry)
Glengarry 28°50′S 114°49′E / 28.833°S 114.817°E / -28.833; 114.817 (Glengarry (Western Australia))
Glengarry 34°0′S 117°59′E / 34.000°S 117.983°E / -34.000; 117.983 (Glengarry)
Glengary 33°58′S 115°6′E / 33.967°S 115.100°E / -33.967; 115.100 (Glengary)
Glengower 31°35′S 116°6′E / 31.583°S 116.100°E / -31.583; 116.100 (Glengower)
Glengowrie 32°22′S 116°50′E / 32.367°S 116.833°E / -32.367; 116.833 (Glengowrie)
Glengrye 33°40′S 115°55′E / 33.667°S 115.917°E / -33.667; 115.917 (Glengrye)
Glengyle 29°42′S 116°12′E / 29.700°S 116.200°E / -29.700; 116.200 (Glengyle)
Glenhilly 33°14′S 116°58′E / 33.233°S 116.967°E / -33.233; 116.967 (Glenhilly)
Glenhuon 33°18′S 115°43′E / 33.300°S 115.717°E / -33.300; 115.717 (Glenhuon)
Glenhurst 32°11′S 118°13′E / 32.183°S 118.217°E / -32.183; 118.217 (Glenhurst)
Glenidol 33°22′S 118°30′E / 33.367°S 118.500°E / -33.367; 118.500 (Glenidol)
Glenisla 34°4′S 118°11′E / 34.067°S 118.183°E / -34.067; 118.183 (Glenisla)
Glenistra 33°50′S 117°0′E / 33.833°S 117.000°E / -33.833; 117.000 (Glenistra)
Glenkeith 33°51′S 116°48′E / 33.850°S 116.800°E / -33.850; 116.800 (Glenkeith)
Glenlark 30°39′S 115°45′E / 30.650°S 115.750°E / -30.650; 115.750 (Glenlark)
Glenlea 33°45′S 117°37′E / 33.750°S 117.617°E / -33.750; 117.617 (Glenlea)
Glenlee 32°3′S 118°15′E / 32.050°S 118.250°E / -32.050; 118.250 (Glenlee)
Glenlee 31°41′S 118°14′E / 31.683°S 118.233°E / -31.683; 118.233 (Glenlee)
Glenleigh 34°15′S 115°9′E / 34.250°S 115.150°E / -34.250; 115.150 (Glenleigh)
Glenlossie 33°49′S 117°9′E / 33.817°S 117.150°E / -33.817; 117.150 (Glenlossie)
Glenloth Park 29°54′S 116°12′E / 29.900°S 116.200°E / -29.900; 116.200 (Glenloth Park)
Glenluce 33°50′S 115°4′E / 33.833°S 115.067°E / -33.833; 115.067 (Glenluce)
Glenmaurie 33°39′S 121°47′E / 33.650°S 121.783°E / -33.650; 121.783 (Glenmaurie)
Glenmere 34°41′S 117°23′E / 34.683°S 117.383°E / -34.683; 117.383 (Glenmere)
Glenmohr 32°32′S 118°10′E / 32.533°S 118.167°E / -32.533; 118.167 (Glenmohr)
Glenmore 29°40′S 116°16′E / 29.667°S 116.267°E / -29.667; 116.267 (Glenmore)
Glenmore 32°27′S 117°25′E / 32.450°S 117.417°E / -32.450; 117.417 (Glenmore)
Glenmore 32°14′S 117°39′E / 32.233°S 117.650°E / -32.233; 117.650 (Glenmore)
Glenmore Park 32°14′S 117°43′E / 32.233°S 117.717°E / -32.233; 117.717 (Glenmore Park)
Glennlossy 34°3′S 119°22′E / 34.050°S 119.367°E / -34.050; 119.367 (Glennlossy)
Glennoye 33°15′S 116°47′E / 33.250°S 116.783°E / -33.250; 116.783 (Glennoye)
Glenoban 31°52′S 116°41′E / 31.867°S 116.683°E / -31.867; 116.683 (Glenoban)
Glenone 33°33′S 115°2′E / 33.550°S 115.033°E / -33.550; 115.033 (Glenone)
Glenora 34°8′S 117°32′E / 34.133°S 117.533°E / -34.133; 117.533 (Glenora)
Glenorchy 33°3′S 116°58′E / 33.050°S 116.967°E / -33.050; 116.967 (Glenorchy)
Glenorchy 33°38′S 116°44′E / 33.633°S 116.733°E / -33.633; 116.733 (Glenorchy)
Glenorchy 33°53′S 118°5′E / 33.883°S 118.083°E / -33.883; 118.083 (Glenorchy)
Glenore 33°13′S 116°47′E / 33.217°S 116.783°E / -33.217; 116.783 (Glenore)
Glenorn 29°5′S 121°40′E / 29.083°S 121.667°E / -29.083; 121.667 (Glenorn)
Glenoyle 33°37′S 115°53′E / 33.617°S 115.883°E / -33.617; 115.883 (Glenoyle)
Glenpadden 34°0′S 117°13′E / 34.000°S 117.217°E / -34.000; 117.217 (Glenpadden)
Glenrae 31°27′S 116°49′E / 31.450°S 116.817°E / -31.450; 116.817 (Glenrae)
Glenray 32°52′S 117°46′E / 32.867°S 117.767°E / -32.867; 117.767 (Glenray)
Glenroa 34°0′S 115°7′E / 34.000°S 115.117°E / -34.000; 115.117 (Glenroa)
Glenronnie 32°15′S 116°54′E / 32.250°S 116.900°E / -32.250; 116.900 (Glenronnie)
Glenrowan 33°46′S 117°24′E / 33.767°S 117.400°E / -33.767; 117.400 (Glenrowan)
Glenrowan 34°12′S 117°3′E / 34.200°S 117.050°E / -34.200; 117.050 (Glenrowan)
Glenrowan 33°17′S 117°43′E / 33.283°S 117.717°E / -33.283; 117.717 (Glenrowan)
Glenrowan 31°58′S 116°53′E / 31.967°S 116.883°E / -31.967; 116.883 (Glenrowan)
Glenrowan 31°22′S 116°29′E / 31.367°S 116.483°E / -31.367; 116.483 (Glenrowan)
Glenroy 17°22′S 126°6′E / 17.367°S 126.100°E / -17.367; 126.100 (Glenroy)
Glenroy 33°50′S 117°3′E / 33.833°S 117.050°E / -33.833; 117.050 (Glenroy)
Glenroy 33°56′S 117°58′E / 33.933°S 117.967°E / -33.933; 117.967 (Glenroy)
Glenshee 33°24′S 117°51′E / 33.400°S 117.850°E / -33.400; 117.850 (Glenshee)
Glenside 31°20′S 116°40′E / 31.333°S 116.667°E / -31.333; 116.667 (Glenside)
Glentana 33°5′S 115°57′E / 33.083°S 115.950°E / -33.083; 115.950 (Glentana)
Glentor 34°39′S 117°52′E / 34.650°S 117.867°E / -34.650; 117.867 (Glentor)
Glentromie 30°55′S 116°14′E / 30.917°S 116.233°E / -30.917; 116.233 (Glentromie)
Glenumbral 33°38′S 122°24′E / 33.633°S 122.400°E / -33.633; 122.400 (Glenumbral)
Glenvalley Farm 33°41′S 115°1′E / 33.683°S 115.017°E / -33.683; 115.017 (Glenvalley Farm)
Glenvar 30°48′S 116°53′E / 30.800°S 116.883°E / -30.800; 116.883 (Glenvar)
Glenview 33°45′S 116°22′E / 33.750°S 116.367°E / -33.750; 116.367 (Glenview)
Glenview 31°25′S 116°49′E / 31.417°S 116.817°E / -31.417; 116.817 (Glenview)
Glenwest 34°29′S 118°37′E / 34.483°S 118.617°E / -34.483; 118.617 (Glenwest)
Glenyon 33°39′S 116°43′E / 33.650°S 116.717°E / -33.650; 116.717 (Glenyon)
Glevedon 32°31′S 118°12′E / 32.517°S 118.200°E / -32.517; 118.200 (Glevedon)
Gloverdale 33°38′S 115°35′E / 33.633°S 115.583°E / -33.633; 115.583 (Gloverdale)
Glynde 31°42′S 116°44′E / 31.700°S 116.733°E / -31.700; 116.733 (Glynde)
Glynmar Farms 33°22′S 116°19′E / 33.367°S 116.317°E / -33.367; 116.317 (Glynmar Farms)
Gna-we 33°53′S 117°22′E / 33.883°S 117.367°E / -33.883; 117.367 (Gna-we)
Gnamagun 34°17′S 117°35′E / 34.283°S 117.583°E / -34.283; 117.583 (Gnamagun)
Gnamma Valley 33°40′S 121°57′E / 33.667°S 121.950°E / -33.667; 121.950 (Gnamma Valley)
Gnaraloo 23°49′S 113°31′E / 23.817°S 113.517°E / -23.817; 113.517 (Gnaraloo)
Gnarawary 34°0′S 115°4′E / 34.000°S 115.067°E / -34.000; 115.067 (Gnarawary)
Gnoolowa 28°56′S 115°28′E / 28.933°S 115.467°E / -28.933; 115.467 (Gnoolowa)
Gobabua 32°57′S 116°47′E / 32.950°S 116.783°E / -32.950; 116.783 (Gobabua)
Gogo 18°18′S 125°35′E / 18.300°S 125.583°E / -18.300; 125.583 (Gogo)
Golden Acres 33°44′S 119°15′E / 33.733°S 119.250°E / -33.733; 119.250 (Golden Acres)
Golden Grove 33°13′S 117°3′E / 33.217°S 117.050°E / -33.217; 117.050 (Golden Grove)
Golden Grove 32°18′S 116°49′E / 32.300°S 116.817°E / -32.300; 116.817 (Golden Grove)
Golden Grove 31°36′S 116°7′E / 31.600°S 116.117°E / -31.600; 116.117 (Golden Grove)
Golden Grove 33°6′S 115°56′E / 33.100°S 115.933°E / -33.100; 115.933 (Golden Grove)
Golden Heights 33°12′S 115°43′E / 33.200°S 115.717°E / -33.200; 115.717 (Golden Heights)
Golden Park 34°19′S 118°59′E / 34.317°S 118.983°E / -34.317; 118.983 (Golden Park)
Golden Valley 33°4′S 117°52′E / 33.067°S 117.867°E / -33.067; 117.867 (Golden Valley)
Golden Valley 32°19′S 116°55′E / 32.317°S 116.917°E / -32.317; 116.917 (Golden Valley)
Golden Valley 33°56′S 117°25′E / 33.933°S 117.417°E / -33.933; 117.417 (Golden Valley)
Golden View 32°12′S 117°8′E / 32.200°S 117.133°E / -32.200; 117.133 (Golden View)
Golden West 29°32′S 115°55′E / 29.533°S 115.917°E / -29.533; 115.917 (Golden West)
Goldmead 33°29′S 116°44′E / 33.483°S 116.733°E / -33.483; 116.733 (Goldmead)
Good Hills 33°50′S 115°48′E / 33.833°S 115.800°E / -33.833; 115.800 (Good Hills)
Good Wood Park 33°39′S 115°44′E / 33.650°S 115.733°E / -33.650; 115.733 (Good Wood Park)
Goodingnow 29°23′S 117°42′E / 29.383°S 117.700°E / -29.383; 117.700 (Goodingnow)
Goodwell Farm 31°18′S 115°52′E / 31.300°S 115.867°E / -31.300; 115.867 (Goodwell Farm)
Googlegong 34°33′S 118°18′E / 34.550°S 118.300°E / -34.550; 118.300 (Googlegong)
Goon Gooning 31°20′S 116°43′E / 31.333°S 116.717°E / -31.333; 116.717 (Goon Gooning)
Goonac 33°41′S 116°9′E / 33.683°S 116.150°E / -33.683; 116.150 (Goonac)
Goongarrie 29°59′S 121°3′E / 29.983°S 121.050°E / -29.983; 121.050 (Goongarrie)
Goose Hill 15°34′S 128°20′E / 15.567°S 128.333°E / -15.567; 128.333 (Goose Hill)
Gordon Downs 18°45′S 128°35′E / 18.750°S 128.583°E / -18.750; 128.583 (Gordon Downs)
Gordon River 34°17′S 117°30′E / 34.283°S 117.500°E / -34.283; 117.500 (Gordon River)
Gorey 33°46′S 121°7′E / 33.767°S 121.117°E / -33.767; 121.117 (Gorey)
Gorya 33°48′S 121°49′E / 33.800°S 121.817°E / -33.800; 121.817 (Gorya)
Gorya Downs 33°29′S 122°6′E / 33.483°S 122.100°E / -33.483; 122.100 (Gorya Downs)
Goyamin Pools 31°33′S 116°9′E / 31.550°S 116.150°E / -31.550; 116.150 (Goyamin Pools)
Goyarra 28°32′S 115°5′E / 28.533°S 115.083°E / -28.533; 115.083 (Goyarra)
Graball 32°3′S 118°34′E / 32.050°S 118.567°E / -32.050; 118.567 (Graball)
Gracefield 34°6′S 117°20′E / 34.100°S 117.333°E / -34.100; 117.333 (Gracefield)
Gracefield 33°44′S 117°38′E / 33.733°S 117.633°E / -33.733; 117.633 (Gracefield)
Gracemere Park 30°26′S 116°7′E / 30.433°S 116.117°E / -30.433; 116.117 (Gracemere Park)
Grafton 34°10′S 117°51′E / 34.167°S 117.850°E / -34.167; 117.850 (Grafton)
Graham Outcamp 24°43′S 114°20′E / 24.717°S 114.333°E / -24.717; 114.333 (Graham Outcamp)
Grand View 33°40′S 117°24′E / 33.667°S 117.400°E / -33.667; 117.400 (Grand View)
Granite Hills 33°50′S 115°47′E / 33.833°S 115.783°E / -33.833; 115.783 (Granite Hills)
Granite Peak 25°38′S 121°22′E / 25.633°S 121.367°E / -25.633; 121.367 (Granite Peak)
Granville 31°13′S 116°48′E / 31.217°S 116.800°E / -31.217; 116.800 (Granville)
Grasfeld 34°32′S 118°33′E / 34.533°S 118.550°E / -34.533; 118.550 (Grasfeld)
Grasmere 33°38′S 117°52′E / 33.633°S 117.867°E / -33.633; 117.867 (Grasmere)
Grass Vale 33°10′S 116°47′E / 33.167°S 116.783°E / -33.167; 116.783 (Grass Vale)
Grass Valley 33°30′S 115°50′E / 33.500°S 115.833°E / -33.500; 115.833 (Grass Valley)
Grassdale 32°53′S 116°28′E / 32.883°S 116.467°E / -32.883; 116.467 (Grassdale)
Grassdale 33°11′S 117°57′E / 33.183°S 117.950°E / -33.183; 117.950 (Grassdale)
Grassdale 31°55′S 116°47′E / 31.917°S 116.783°E / -31.917; 116.783 (Grassdale)
Grassdale 32°41′S 116°41′E / 32.683°S 116.683°E / -32.683; 116.683 (Grassdale)
Grassdale 32°21′S 116°44′E / 32.350°S 116.733°E / -32.350; 116.733 (Grassdale)
Grassmor 29°53′S 115°24′E / 29.883°S 115.400°E / -29.883; 115.400 (Grassmor)
Grasswood 33°43′S 115°49′E / 33.717°S 115.817°E / -33.717; 115.817 (Grasswood)
Graydon 34°27′S 117°14′E / 34.450°S 117.233°E / -34.450; 117.233 (Graydon)
Green Grove 29°32′S 115°4′E / 29.533°S 115.067°E / -29.533; 115.067 (Green Grove)
Green Grove Valley 29°33′S 115°4′E / 29.550°S 115.067°E / -29.550; 115.067 (Green Grove Valley)
Green Hill 33°2′S 116°29′E / 33.033°S 116.483°E / -33.033; 116.483 (Green Hill)
Green Stone 33°23′S 119°24′E / 33.383°S 119.400°E / -33.383; 119.400 (Green Stone)
Green Valley 33°1′S 116°27′E / 33.017°S 116.450°E / -33.017; 116.450 (Green Valley)
Green Valley 34°11′S 115°8′E / 34.183°S 115.133°E / -34.183; 115.133 (Green Valley)
Green Warri 34°43′S 118°30′E / 34.717°S 118.500°E / -34.717; 118.500 (Green Warri)
Greenacres 31°18′S 115°36′E / 31.300°S 115.600°E / -31.300; 115.600 (Greenacres)
Greenacres 34°51′S 118°9′E / 34.850°S 118.150°E / -34.850; 118.150 (Greenacres)
Greenacres 33°41′S 121°50′E / 33.683°S 121.833°E / -33.683; 121.833 (Greenacres)
Greenacres 33°18′S 117°5′E / 33.300°S 117.083°E / -33.300; 117.083 (Greenacres)
Greenfields 33°30′S 115°34′E / 33.500°S 115.567°E / -33.500; 115.567 (Greenfields)
Greenfields 33°15′S 115°47′E / 33.250°S 115.783°E / -33.250; 115.783 (Greenfields)
Greenhaven 34°38′S 116°10′E / 34.633°S 116.167°E / -34.633; 116.167 (Greenhaven)
Greenhills 31°34′S 116°26′E / 31.567°S 116.433°E / -31.567; 116.433 (Greenhills)
Greenhills 31°38′S 116°2′E / 31.633°S 116.033°E / -31.633; 116.033 (Greenhills)
Greenhills 33°47′S 117°35′E / 33.783°S 117.583°E / -33.783; 117.583 (Greenhills)
Greenlands 28°49′S 115°1′E / 28.817°S 115.017°E / -28.817; 115.017 (Greenlands)
Greenslopes 31°40′S 116°5′E / 31.667°S 116.083°E / -31.667; 116.083 (Greenslopes)
Greenvale 34°59′S 117°33′E / 34.983°S 117.550°E / -34.983; 117.550 (Greenvale)
Greenvale 34°27′S 117°26′E / 34.450°S 117.433°E / -34.450; 117.433 (Greenvale)
Greenvale 17°5′S 127°50′E / 17.083°S 127.833°E / -17.083; 127.833 (Greenvale)
Greenville 32°51′S 117°20′E / 32.850°S 117.333°E / -32.850; 117.333 (Greenville)
Greenway Park 30°52′S 116°15′E / 30.867°S 116.250°E / -30.867; 116.250 (Greenway Park)
Greenwood 31°14′S 115°34′E / 31.233°S 115.567°E / -31.233; 115.567 (Greenwood)
Greenwood 33°40′S 115°35′E / 33.667°S 115.583°E / -33.667; 115.583 (Greenwood)
Greenwood Farm 34°4′S 117°30′E / 34.067°S 117.500°E / -34.067; 117.500 (Greenwood Farm)
Greenwood Outcamp 26°22′S 118°44′E / 26.367°S 118.733°E / -26.367; 118.733 (Greenwood Outcamp)
Greve-lea 33°47′S 116°32′E / 33.783°S 116.533°E / -33.783; 116.533 (Greve-lea)
Greycliffe 33°19′S 115°51′E / 33.317°S 115.850°E / -33.317; 115.850 (Greycliffe)
Greycotes Farm 34°57′S 117°33′E / 34.950°S 117.550°E / -34.950; 117.550 (Greycotes Farm)
Greystone 33°36′S 117°33′E / 33.600°S 117.550°E / -33.600; 117.550 (Greystone)
Greystones 33°6′S 116°41′E / 33.100°S 116.683°E / -33.100; 116.683 (Greystones)
Greystones 34°33′S 117°37′E / 34.550°S 117.617°E / -34.550; 117.617 (Greystones)
Griffiths 30°55′S 115°53′E / 30.917°S 115.883°E / -30.917; 115.883 (Griffiths)
Gripthorpe 31°14′S 116°35′E / 31.233°S 116.583°E / -31.233; 116.583 (Gripthorpe)
Guayula Park 33°18′S 121°29′E / 33.300°S 121.483°E / -33.300; 121.483 (Guayula Park)
Gum Flats 33°40′S 117°39′E / 33.667°S 117.650°E / -33.667; 117.650 (Gum Flats)
Gummeracka 32°41′S 118°15′E / 32.683°S 118.250°E / -32.683; 118.250 (Gummeracka)
Gunbower 33°20′S 117°53′E / 33.333°S 117.883°E / -33.333; 117.883 (Gunbower)
Gundagai 33°34′S 115°40′E / 33.567°S 115.667°E / -33.567; 115.667 (Gundagai)
Gundarup 33°49′S 115°48′E / 33.817°S 115.800°E / -33.817; 115.800 (Gundarup)
Gungunnu 32°54′S 118°30′E / 32.900°S 118.500°E / -32.900; 118.500 (Gungunnu)
Gungunnu Downs 33°28′S 121°19′E / 33.467°S 121.317°E / -33.467; 121.317 (Gungunnu Downs)
Gunine 31°24′S 116°51′E / 31.400°S 116.850°E / -31.400; 116.850 (Gunine)
Gunna Do 33°51′S 119°12′E / 33.850°S 119.200°E / -33.850; 119.200 (Gunna Do)
Gunna Do 33°40′S 119°20′E / 33.667°S 119.333°E / -33.667; 119.333 (Gunna Do)
Gunna Tri 33°17′S 119°57′E / 33.283°S 119.950°E / -33.283; 119.950 (Gunna Tri)
Gunnadorrah 30°59′S 125°52′E / 30.983°S 125.867°E / -30.983; 125.867 (Gunnadorrah)
Gunwarrie 34°19′S 117°13′E / 34.317°S 117.217°E / -34.317; 117.217 (Gunwarrie)
Gunyidi 30°10′S 116°6′E / 30.167°S 116.100°E / -30.167; 116.100 (Gunyidi)
Guyscliffe 29°55′S 116°27′E / 29.917°S 116.450°E / -29.917; 116.450 (Guyscliffe)
Gwambygine 31°59′S 116°48′E / 31.983°S 116.800°E / -31.983; 116.800 (Gwambygine)
Gwen Dale 33°1′S 116°39′E / 33.017°S 116.650°E / -33.017; 116.650 (Gwen Dale)
Gwindinup 33°31′S 115°45′E / 33.517°S 115.750°E / -33.517; 115.750 (Gwindinup)
Gymcoorda 32°39′S 116°32′E / 32.650°S 116.533°E / -32.650; 116.533 (Gymcoorda)

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Transcription

This is John Kohler with growing your greens.com. Today we have another exciting episode for you. I just got a new toy in the mail it's the right hear check it out. This is actually called the garden tower project and it's known as a garden tower. And what it is basically, it looks like a 55 gallon drum with a heavy modification to grow food in. But why I like this so much is because it has 45 planting spots all up and down through this whole barrel. In addition you can plant some plants up the top so you can plant over 50 plants in just 4 ft.² off space. So literally, that's a lot of planets for it just a small area. So this is especially good if you have a patio, deck, little apartment or a condo and you don't have a lot of space. Maybe if you just have a little bit of space on your patio outside. You could grow a lot of food in the sky. I have seen other tower gardens, which I don't particularly care for but this guy let's you grow a lot more and he lets you roll it in soil. Plus, this is very intelligently designed. It's part of the best vertical tower garden system I've ever seen. Let me go ahead and explain why. Besides the 45 planting holes, what's unique about this system is, it's got this Center tube hear in middle and what they do in the center tube is your going to put food scraps and red wiggler worms or composting worms. The worm is going to eat the food scraps, break it down, spread the worm compos or Vermeer compost all throughout the unit to help fertilize the plants in there. Plus on the bottom of this unit is a place that you can actually take out the food scraps out of the bottom. So that's really cool. This vertical tower garden makes its own fertilizer. You can't say that for other ones. Another thing is that this is water conserving. So water is a very precious resource especially depending on where you live in this day and age. And this one conserves water. How does it do that? Well Very simply. You pour the water on or water up to the top while the plant will get water the water will drain down all the different plant planted in all of these pocket things are going to get water then the water goes to the bottom, once it get to the bottom it's basically funnel out certain whole and you're going to put little buckets underneath and all the water that goes through, now your going to have it in a bucket. You can re-use this water to water it again so that there is minimal water loss. Many just standard garden pots or whatever. You know you will just water and it just run out on the deck or down below. The excess water on your deck can actually ruin your deck. If you live on a three-story apartment building and you have to water your plants. When you over water them the stuff will drip down to your neighbor which isn't cool either. This you could collect the water and reuse it. So this is a well thought out design so I'm happy to be setting one up and sharing this up with you guys and showing you how it works and how I'm going to set it up. So this just came to me as you guys can see there is a US Post Office label on there. I mean it literally came shaped like this through the mail without even any raping. It was not damaged our anything. It looks totally perfectly fine. So in this video what we're going to do is to set this guy up and show you guys how easy it is to set up. I'm going to make a specific potting soil mixture. I'm going show you guys that as well. Plus you'll see me plant out my plants. And by the end of his video you'll see how easy it is to set one of these garden Tower projects up if you want to grow avertable At home. So I guess with that, let's get into un-boxing and assembling. So let's see what we got in the box here. Sounds like some hard work so construction is super simple super easy. I think pretty much what were going to need to do is to bolt down a few legs and put a couple of bolts in there. In the box you get some instructions. It's definitely important to follow the instructions. I might read them or look at them but I'm just going to just do my own thing. Looks pretty basic. Next we got some stainless steel hardware. If you use standard hardware on something like this outdoors it's going to rust, not cool. I like the providing of heavy-duty stainless hardware. In addition we have the wood legs. These stand it up off the ground so that you can put a bucket underneath to collect all the water. Plus it also allows you to garden whether you're sitting or standing. So if you're in a wheelchair you can still garden in this garden tower project. So definitely really cool. There's three legs and look to be a nice hardwood here. In addition we have two more parts, a standard pot looks like it's made out of pbc, and the top basically goes on here. And it doesn't set all the way down. It kind of just sits on the top; it doesn't go all the way down because in the end you wouldn't be able to get it back off. The top has some holes in it for air ration. And you want to learn more about this at gardentowerproject.com. Finally we have this big thing here. This is some kind of compression plug. What this does is go underneath the bottom of the whole unit. The club actually fits in the bottom of this tube here. You can remove this plug for a harvest in your worm casting from under neath. This is definitely well thought out. I like it for sure. So next let's get in to the actual assembly. It's going to be a breeze. So for the assemble we are going to need a few things. We're going to need a small table or something else I like, a 7 gallon bucket. What were going to do is take this guy and put it on the top of the bucket to get it off the ground. And I hope this holds us in now. And some other things will need of source are some tools. We got us some half inch ratchet and a half inch driver. That's going to basically bolt on these legs. These legs have special cutouts and they are labeled. This one's labeled C. You're going to look for the labels c on the unit itself. And it's just going to sit like that and you're going to bolt them in. So that's it. You don't want to over tighten. Just finger tighten and that would be good. We're going to go ahead and take it off the bucket here. It's fairly light. We are going to go ahead and take our little plug here and unscrew this guy. Then when you unscrew it is going to lose the tension on this rubber bushing thing in here. And then you take it and put it underneath and shove it in the hole. And then you go-ahead and screwed tight and it'll lock in place. So once you have your garden tower fully assemble and is actually quite a breeze to assemble. You're going to want to do a few things. Number one, you're going to want to find the right location place your garden tower. I recommend placing it in the sunniest place possible. The more son your plant receive, the faster it will grow for you. Don't worry. Even if you have a place that doesn't get enough sun, that's alright because you can still grow some things. Shady spot is better to grow herbs and leapy which will do okay but not exilent. Just won't grow and yield as fast. So you want to find the right location before filling it up. Because if you fill it up and try to move it is going to be quite heavy. Besides the location you're going to want to get somewhere nice and level. If your location is on grass or dirt you're going to want to put it on some metal bricks to keep it off the wet ground. After you have selected your location the most important thing that you need to do is to fill it with the proper and appropriate soil mix. I cannot emphasize enough how important this is. If you fill it up with just any old dirt from your yard your plants probably won't do as well. Plus because this is a container garden you need to have proper air ration, proper moisture holding capabilities in there. So for that reason I recommend using a potting soil mix. There many potting soil mixes of the marketplace and some of definitely better than others. Usually in potting soils but not always, you get what you payed for. If you paid a good amount for a potted soil mix you get quality stuff. If the potted mix is pretty cheap then normally the ingredients aren't so good. You want to get a nice fine potted soil it's going to want to contain things like, coconut core, perlite and compost. If you buy a pre-bagged one that's great, because that's going to make it easy for beginners. I like to personally make my own blend. And that's what I'm going to show you now to make your own blend of a good potting soil. It's going to work excellent in the garden tower that I'm assembling behind me. So what I want to do is to have a nice fluffy mixture. If you want to get some dirt, stand, dirt, mud or clay. It's going to flip in there and the roots won't be able to grow optimally. The plan routes don't grow through the soil, they'd grow between the airspace in the soil. And that's why good fluffy mix is going to be optimal for this. That's what most potting mix provides. That's what I'm pretty much going to duplicate doing my own thing. I'm going to cheat a little bit. Most potting mixes, as I've mentioned earlier containing, perlite, coconut core or Pete moss plus compost and other ingredience. I'm going to make up a mix myself making the perlite separate from the Pete moss or coconut core. I've got some product that has already done that for me. Many of you guys might know this stuff right here it's called Pro mix BX with mycorrhizae. This is perlite with the Pete Moss and it's from Canada and it's premade. It also has the beneficial fun guy, the mycorrhizae which is really going to supercharge plant growth. It will help plants get more nutrition out of the soil that you're planting in. So while you could use something like this I find a much better alternative to using something like the Pro mix as the base to my potting soil that I'm going to create in the wheelbarrow behind me. Now this guy is actually called in air Max. So instead of just having the perlite and the Pete Moss which I'm not a super huge fan of. I still use it absolutely and it's a great medium. But I prefer coconut core as a much better medium. Coconut core is more sustainable than the Pete Moss and it's more renewable. A coconut palm will produce over a 100 knots a year. And we'll eat the food and drink the water out of that. It's one of my favorite foods. But also you're left with the husk on the outside that can be put into a product like this to be reused. There is a never ending resource as long as the coconut tree is abound. I like the earmarks because it has the quadruple wash Coconut fiber and this is important that you get a high quality coconut core. Many coconut core can be of often low-quality and things will not grow in them or grow that well. Not being properly balanced. The coconut core it's a great product but it needs to be washed to get out all the different nutrients out of it that may have been sitting there from being in brackish water or whatnot. I like this as triple washed coconut core. In addition it also has the pure light that is also definitely really good. It also has Pairo magnetic rock. Definitely really good. It also has the mycorrhizae and humic acid in seaweed. So these are some of my favorite product that I won't have to add to the mixture because it's already in the back. So what I'm going to do next is put in two of the bags its one point five cubic feet each. That's going to be a total of 3 ft.³ I think the garden tower holds 8 ft.³ or so. That's going to be three bags that's a good portion of it. The other things that were going to add in their is the compost, worm casting, fungal-based compost and a few other things like the rock dost and some other things that I like. I'm going to show you guys how to mix it up behind me. Now we're going to make up the soil mix. This is my favorite part actually because I get to get my hands dirty. We got the wheelbarrow here that holds 4 1/2 ft.³ of soil. We are going to Make two batches to fill the garden tower there. The first ingredients were going to use is the airmax. We're going to cut open the bag here. It's definitely nice to, rich and black. Lots of porelite and cocnut coure in there. There is no smelling in there and I like that a lot. So we're going to dump this in as our base ingredient. If you can't get the air Max or can't find it you're going to want the use a good washed coconut core or a purlight to make up for it. You can also use the makariser the calp the seaweed the paramagnetic rock and the other stuff that are in here. I like that they put it together for me and they formulate an excellent blend and they have done a lot of testing on it to get excellent results if you know what I mean. I'm not going to go around and reinvent the wheel when I can find a product that can really kick some butt. Let's go head and dump this guy out. This stuff is nice and rich. I want to show you guys the difference between this stuff here and the standard potting stuff that you might buy. Here's a standard potting soil and it's made by Kellogg's. So we're going to go ahead and open this stuff up. We're going to put about a quarter of what's in the bag in here just to get volume and masse to our mixture. It's also kind of fluffy because this is a standard potting mix. I want to share this with you guys and compare to the stuff I put in. And also give you some ideas on what is normally put in potting soil mixes. You might want to look for it or you might not want out of it. I'm going to read you guys the ingredients on the bag. Composted Forest product, composted rice halls, composted porched manure, pearlite, caltmeal, worm castings and iron saltfate. And this is an organic potting mix. I always recommend that you guys purchase organic Potting mix without chemically derived altered factory mixtures. If it says organic usually it's from natural material that I would actually use in my garden. This is actually 0MRI certified so that's definitely a good certification to look for it if you can't find it in your area. Let's pour out some of this stuff here. Once again it's nice and black.We will put in about that much right here. And unlike the stuff you just saw before it's nice sun block. I don't know if you can see it on the camera. And if we dig up the air Max you can see the difference. This stuff looks to me like it has a lot of uncomposted Forest product. I'm not a fan of uncomposted Forest product which includes pieces off little wood ships and barks and stuff like this. This would not be my first choice for a potting soil to fill out my garden tower. That's why I'm just mixing this stuff in. I mean some of this stuff is good. A little bit of compostd monour in there. But I'm not a fan of that stuff either. So besides this stuff that where going to mix in, we're going to go ahead and put in one of my favorite ingredients. Compost that I made myself. I recommend that you guys make your own compost. If you can't make your own compost, buy from a reputable store. A lot of compost in the store are not really of high quality and that are from things that I wouldn't necessarily use. alot off compost that are mostly made from animal monoures which are from the factory and those I wouldn't use. The compost that I made here is made out of food scraps and yard clippings, pine pellets and sawdust and also some coconut core that I've added in addition. Let's pour this stuff out. I have sieved it all. This is definitely a heavier soil cause I added all that perlight and coconut core in the air Max product. We're going to mix this altogether. It has a nice mutual smell. I like that a lot. Nothing better than your homemade compost. The next thing we're going to add to our mixture is something I'm a big fan of is the rock dost. I have about four different kind of rock dust. So where do not add them One at a time. You might be asking which rock dust is the base to have. I recommend any rock dost. It is best to combine all the rock dost so that the plants get all the minerals. I have the azurites version and the micro bits version of powdered up version. If you can only find azurites in the powdered version that's the one I would recommend. The granola version is also cool. It doesn't dissolve quite so easily. It's what's available in the local area because azurites can be hard to find. If you are looking for azurites and unable to find it in a local nursery, don't be alarmed. You can actually order it online. I have a small video and entitled the lowest price on rock dust. Actually that's where I got my stuff. I'm just going to use of standard little cup here and where to take a couple of each of the rock dost and pour it in my mixture. Be aware when dealing with the power of rock dust it is a fine particulate so you would want to wear a dust mask. I'm going to carefully pour out some into my mixture and continue adding stuff. Next we are going to go ahead and add a whole bunch of the grainier. And I do have a video comparing the grainier to the micronized version if you're interested. But this step is actually a lot larger. So we're going to go once again put this on our mixture as well. Next we have another rock dust called the volcanic mineral plus. We going to go once again and put our scoop in here. This is not quite as fine as the azurites so it is not as dusty. This is more of a sandy type texture, its still a bit dusty my favorite thing to do is to blend all different type of rock dust. If you can only find one use one. You can find many kinds then use smaller amounts of each kind to get that synergistic effect to ensure that your plants are going to have the minerals they need to succeed. School the Spanish made their carbonate may be available if you live up in Canada on the East Coast of the US or up in Ontario. I like this one a lot; it's a well-balanced rock dust that I've found. And I am happy to have included it in my garden. Let's go ahead and get another rock dust. The next rock dust is called guy green glacial rock dust found in British Columbia area of Canada. So if you're on the west coast of Canada you may be able to find the guy green glacial rock dust. This is one of the oldest this rock dust that I've been using for the longest time. This is actually the micronized version about as fine as the azurite once again we're going to get a nice scoop out of here. This one is quite powdered up so you want to wear a respirator and try not to make it dust off too much. Next we have a trace in or product .And this is how serious I am about rock dust I don't just use one I use many kinds. To make sure my plants are going to be happy, it's like a if you go to a buffet, would you to go a buffet would like to go to a buffet that just had salad bar or would rather go to a buffet that has a salad bar, pizza station, spaghetti station, hamburger station, the Taco station and it's a lot of station right well you get my point. Your plants want all these different stations and I'm providing it to them by giving them a little bit of all these different kinds of rock dust and I'm glad I'm able to do this. This one's thanks to the viewer, this is actually called the cascade mineral it's actually from the pacific North West. We're going to go ahead and grab a scoop this is actually a dark black rock dust it's not quite as fine as the other ones its maybe a little more coarse than the Spanish river carbonate. Well it looks good nonetheless, I'm glad I'm adding this next venture as well. Next we have another trace mineral product it's actually called the egg when mineral fertilizer so yet another trace segmentation I hear this one actually comes from Europe. But the country is actually distributing it out of California. This is a nice red color it be cool to show all these colors on the camera there. All the different colors of the different rock dust means different nutrients are in there. So the next mineral product we have is called jumbo maximize not only does it contain the minerals it contains beneficial microbes that help basically break down the minerals and allow your plants to absorb them. So were going to put in a scoop of the jumbo maximize in our mixture. I mean all that comes in these products are simply amazing so another way to add minerals back into the soil is by using something called humid acid this is some soil humid right here in this bag I got it at the local feed store. And it's like black pebble things it has minerals that will be added back into the soil. Some of this is actually a powder you can see some of it constantly blowing off. I definitely think this is a good thing to add as well. Another thing I've talked about on my show in the past has been zealight. We have some powdered up zealight in here. Once again zeolite is just another mineral. That's what I'm big on, adding minerals. Most people add NPK which three minerals back in there soil. I'm adding a host of over seventy dirt mineral in all these different basically grown or braux. The zealight acts as as a really fine particulate. So you want to were a respirator for some of these things and try not to make it dust up so much. We have another mineral with mostly carbon. I'm using bio char one of these days I will make a specific video on the bio char far you guys and hopefully I can get you a special price. They can be hard to find and very expensive. Okay let's go ahead and put the scoop off this stuff. This is pre-inoculate bio char if you're using char it's basically carbin and the carbin. Carbin can set new nutrients out of the soil. That's why I like preinoculated bia char. We're going to add the tool scoops of this bio char. The bio char is good because it gave the microbes a place to hide. You think of bio char as if you're thinking of a sponge with the needs of no ax and the greans well that's how it is under a microscope. Oh but the bacteria can hide in there and give them a nice home plus it adds carbon to the soil which is really important for the plants growth. There's this soil called teripredi soil from South America it's like dark nice rich soil I found that it contains a nice percentage of biocharg it's a good thing to add to your garden. I'm adding it into my soil mix. And here's a another product called soil optimizer . I start using it this year and I'm getting some amazing results in my garden by just adding some of the products. We are just going to go ahead and add a half couple. This product is once again the hemi acids. These are very important for the optimal soil fertility once it relates to the bacteria. Once again that's what I'm trying to here. I'm trying to build the best soil. The soil microbes help to break down all the nurturance in the soil so you can feed your plant so they can dance. Just to ensure my plants get off to a good start I'm going to add a organic based fertilizer. Not from manors. It's called the nourish bio salt this is a seven to one. And we are going to go ahead and take a scoop of this stuff and put it in the mix. The next thing we are going to add are merle hipon. It's the earth worm casting. The earth worm casting are one of the best things you could add to increase the bio diversity of the beneficial bacteria and funguy that could probably obtain locally if not make yourself at home in a worm bin. We are going to take about five scoops of this worm castings and to the mixture. This is nice dark and rich castings. Use different casting from different suppliers that are feeding their worms different things because the nutrients in the worm castings are going to be a little bit different. Maybe I put too much in mine but you can't put too much casting. It will not burn your plants. Next lets add another kind of casting. The next thing is insect frash and this is organic certified and what this is going to do is not only add nutrition it going to add some beneficial micros, beneficial fugue and bacteria back into the soil that going to help convert nutrition out of the soil and take it in the plant. Plus the intake fras is high on the kiting which will help your plant build their defense against insects. So we throw some out in our mixture. The next ingredient in my opinion is also very important to add which is what many gardeners maybe leaving out. What we have in this day and age is called the boogy humas. And this is a basically wood chip composts made at a low temperature. It takes years for this wood to develop from rotten trees. This basically gets the fugile into my soil. Add half of bag into the mixture. Many people do not know that many trees in the forest are fungal dominated. It's always a mixture. It is important to have a right mixture. After adding all the ingredient we are just going to mix it up. So I have all my soil mixed up. It's nice and fluffy. Some of you are asking what ratio I use. I just go by gardener's inter wishing. If you don't feel good making this mixture yourself that's all right you can go buy a reputable potting mixture. I just want to dive in and get best and most explosive growth and highest product produce I can grow that's why I add a lot of these things. I know some of these things are hard to find or expensive. You want to defiantly use a coconut core and per light. You also want to defiantly use a compost. A termafilic compost, heat base compost, fungal dominated compost, rock dust and the worm castings. That's my bear minimum. The next step is to put the mixture in my garden tower and start planting out. I full up the tower little by little and then I put the plant in it as I go along. Whenever planting in your garden tower you want to plant the appropriate plant. We are into the fog approaching the winter so I'm going to plant plants that can deal with the weather that we are going to be getting here. Certain plant can't deal with certain weather. Another thing that I', notice is the spaces of these holes are not too large I find that it is best to get the standard small six packs work best to trance plant from. I was planting these jumbo sixers here. The jumbo sixers have a larger space and these are probably three inch or two inch in diameter. I will have to sqees them in but yet they fit very nicely. If you are trying to trance plant from a four incher it might be a challenge to get it into the garden tower. I recommend trance planting from six packs. I recommend you start from trance plant for a higher chance of success. So I'm continuing to plant up my tower here and I found some approaches that work very well. An average person would dump all the soil in there. If you do that you're going to half to dig out the hole to get your trance plant in there. I'm going to show you my favorite way to put plants in here that are larger than the hole. You're going to plant from the inside. Take out the plant put it on the inside and stick the plant out through the hole and cover the root with the soil mix. You just repeat that for the next nine holes. I got all the plants in there and the roots are hanging on the inside. We are going to plant lattice for the final transplant. So I got all the levels planted in super simple super easy. So now that we got all the different plants in place, we level off the soil mix carefully on the top of the tower. I think I will plant some spinach on top. We got eight pots of spinach on top. I like to space them out. This tower has about fifty three plants .In just four square feet of space. That's amazing. Plus it pretty much recycles the water. So we just water the tower until it starts come out of the bottom. This might take a bit. These guys definitely wanted a drink. It reminds me of a song when I was younger. Have a drink on me plants. So we are watering and what happens when we water is we are distributing it evenly around. You should try and water closer to the outside so it can ketch the baby roots. It's like a sponge so it takes a while for the water to soak in. oh man finally I'm don't took me about five minute for it to start dripping into the bucket under the tower. You need to find a place you want it because after you water it you won't be able to move it. As you can see it is leaking out through the bottom along with some of the nurturance. When it's don you can throw it back in the tower to keep the nurturance. So a week has past and it's looking really beautiful. Some of the plants had some plant shots but they are getting over it now. Everything is lush and doing pretty good especially the spinach. The spinach really filled out since I've put it in there. Everything is pushing out a lot of leaves like they are ready to harvest. I like that the larger plants I put in there is doing much better. They are flourishing better than the smaller ones. I always encourage you guys to start out with some larger size trance plant. With the larger size transplant you won't have to plant them from the back side. The final stage I couldn't film earlier because I didn't have the things to do it. That is to fill up the tube in the center of the tube. The center tube is where the magic happens. This is why I like this garden tower system because it allows you to keep you own worms. The worms will eat your old produce scraps and make fertilizer or the rich worm casting which are very beneficial to your plants. So the theory is if you full this up with some bedding and some food scraps and some bunch of worms in there are going to go down on the food scraps and they're going to basically go through the holes in the thing to go into the composted all-around and you will have a living system in here that will create it's own fertilizer. Like I said earlier you want to start with a really good soil mixture that is really rich and nutritious. I don't want to leave this to a hand full of worms to give nurturance to all 50 plants here in this tower garden. So the reason why I couldn't finish this project is because I didn't have any worms. So I had to figure out how to get the wiggler worm which you know is the composting worms that is the red worms. The often time sold at bait shops which are used for fishing. I called a few place around here and they didn't have any. So luckily I found a lady on craigslist who sold the worms for compost and she is big in keeping her worm. And I'm glad I can support here. She sells five hundred worm for $15 or a thousand worm for $30. I went ahead and bought the worms. It came in a dish thing that you do your dishes in. she said the worms can be kept in this. She said I should take out some of the worms because 500 worms should not be kept in there it's better for about 200. She gave me directions and everything . This is a very good business for you entrepreneurs. The earthworms create some of the best fertilizer on earth for your plants. This is how nature works. Why did nature god or whatever put the earth worms in the grown to eat up and decompose the organic matter and make nurturance for the plants to keep the cycle going. It's all about systems. A tip she gave me is I want to keep it in light for couple of days. What that will do is the light keeps them in there and prevents them from crowing out. It looks like a bunch of shredded news paper. I don't know how she counts out 500 worms. Or maybe she just weighs them. Basically she put some shredded news paper in it and a card board mat at the bottom. There is a whole bunch of them under the cardboard. What we are going to do is throw some of these worms down the tower tube. We are going to remove the PVC cap here. I see the tub go all the way down to the bottom. There looks like there is an overflow of soil mixture that I filled it with. The thing is this step is really optional. I highly encourage you guys to do this step to keep some live worms in here. If you don't want to do this step with the worms you could just fill it up with your standard potting mix that you used to fill it up. I recommend that you fill it up with food scraps about one third of the way up and then add about a hand full or two of worms in there. I'm going to do it little different. Worms like a good bedding to sleep like shredded news paper. You should use the black and white news paper not the colored because it is glossy. This is what I'm going to use, coconut core. I think they like the coconut core more. If you put in food scraps and it's rotting the coconut core will absorb the moister to help keep the moister level balance out right. The next thing we want to do is to give the worms some food. We have some dehydrated peppers. It's not good to put citric peels in. if you just put food scraps in here you may get food flies and all kind of other stuff. I'm going to do something reel cook that I learned in the past video out in Baltimore area Aberdeen. They don't feed their worms food scraps they feed them finished compost. So we are going to give the worms concentrated food scraps in the form of the compost that I made here. Here is some compost that I made some rich delicious stuff. You want to make shore you put some finished compost to feed your worms. When you smell it, it shouldn't have a smell it should just have a neutral smell. You want to fill about a third up. This is literally all that you going to want to feed your worm. The next thing is we are going to add some worms. Only for good measure I'm going to put about a hand full of some more cores. I'm sure this is going to work the way it is because we got the worms in there we got the food in there they got the bedding there going to be totally happy. We just want to make sure it maintains a proper moister level. So by adding the fresh food scraps and vegetable scraps e may have a moister level. In addition I've been watering this every day by using the drip offs and re watering. It actually stays fairly well watered especially establishing your plants. Watering it is very important. I've been top watering it and for the first couple of days I've been watering each plant. Some of the water would over flow in the beginning but know that I'm watering it, it seems like the roots are starting to grow and starting to seek out water. Because that's what the roots do they seek out the water. So you don't have water at the plant you just need to water where it's at. Well we are at the last step. So we put the top back on. If you want to learn more about the garden tower you should check out the website gardentowerproject.com. I think that's pretty much it for my garden tower setup. Hopefully you guys enjoyed this video showing you how to set up one of these garden towers. I think that this is an amazing setup and defiantly important. You should try to buy one if you don't have a large yard to garden in. I like that it holds fifty plus plants in one small four square root of space and plus it also has a worm bin. The main thing you want to remember is that you want this to have as much sun as possible. Try to make it be able to rotate to get even sun light. So all and all, this is defiantly a success with the garden tower project. Recommend you get one if you have a small space or just a patio. I defiantly recommend the garden tower over the tower garden. Hopefully you guys enjoyed this episode once again my name is John Kohler with growing your greens.com see you next time and remember keep on growing.

See also

References

  1. ^ Gazetteer of Australia (1996). Belconnen, ACT: Australian Surveying and Land Information Group.
  2. ^ "Place names of Australia". Geoscience Australia. 2004. Archived from the original on 10 August 2006. Retrieved 30 July 2006.

Further reading

  • Streetsmart Travellers Atlas of Western Australia (2006) Department of Land Information and West Australian Newspapers, 9th ed. ISBN 1-921048-13-1
    • In the state Maps (Road Maps of Western Australia Maps 1-154) "Pastoral Lease Stations" are identified with their names and boundaries, and in some cases homesteads can be identified.
  • Quality Publishing Australia. (2007) Roads & tracks Western Australia : campsites directory, roads and tracks, all in one Jolimont, W.A., Quality Publishing Australia, 5th ed ISBN 1876723351
    • Identifies homesteads.
  • UBD Western Australia country road atlas (2005) Macquarie Park, N.S.W. UBD, a division of Universal Publishers, 11th ed ISBN 0-7319-1587-9
    • Identifies homesteads.

External links

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