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List of baseball parks in Cincinnati

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Great American Ball Park
Great American Ball Park
Redland (Crosley) Field
Redland (Crosley) Field

This is a list of venues used for professional baseball in Cincinnati, Ohio. The information is a compilation of the information contained in the references listed.

YouTube Encyclopedic

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  • How To Renovate A Pitcher's Mound


While reconstructing a pitcher's mound can be labor-intensive, the job can be fairly simply with a little know-how and some capable helpers. You'll need some tools for the job, as you see listed here, not all are required but having them will make your job a lot easier. Your materials list should include these items. For professional results, we recommend Turface athletic clay and conditioners. The first step in the process is to take your measurements. This will allow you to verify the placement of the pitching rubber in relation to home plate. To start, drive an 18-inch spike at the apex of home plate, then tie your twine 10 inches above the surface of the plate. Drive another 18-inch spike behind the second base peg, and tie off your line 10 inches above the skin. Be sure the string is tight. The top of the pitching rubber needs to sit exactly 10 inches above the level of home plate, so you'll use the string to make sure that it's positioned correctly. To locate the correct placement of the pitching rubber, measure 60 feet 6 inches from the apex of home plate to the mound, then sink an eight-inch nail directly below the line. This will mark the front center placement of the new pitching rubber. Next, you need to verify that the diameter of the mound is still accurate. From the nail you just put in, measure out 18 inches toward home plate, and drive another eight-inch nail under the line. This will mark your exact center of the mound. Using your measuring tape, measure out nine feet from the nail to the outer edge of the mound, use athletic field paint to outline the diameter of the mound. If you have any turf that's inside the paint line, you'll want to remove it and clear any debris. At this point you can remove the old pitching rubber. You may be able to use the existing rubber as long as it's in good shape and has two clean edges. Just rotate the worn side to the bottom. On this particular job, we chose to use a brand new rubber. Remove enough material from the hole left over by the old pitching rubber to make room for the new one. Allow for a couple of inches of new clay to create a level base to work from, then tamp down firmly. Since a regulation-size pitching rubber is six inches tall, the distance from your base to the string line should be six inches. Now that you've prepared the area, pack the inside of the new rubber with clay. This will not only support the structure, but will give it added weight to keep it in place. Mark a line down the exact center to help you with alignment. Place the rubber so that the front edge is touching the eight-inch nail that you used to mark its placement. The center line should sit directly under the string. Add or remove clay to level the rubber so that the string is resting on top. You will likely need to make small adjustments until the pitching rubber is level both front to back and side to side. To confirm that the pitching rubber is square to home plate, take measurements from the front left corner of home plate to the front left corner of the pitching rubber. Do the same to the right side, making sure that both measurements are the same. Once the pitching rubber is in place, add a few inches of clay around it, pack it down, and lock it in. At this point you can lay out the pitcher's table. The table should be five feet wide, three feet deep, with the front edge six inches from the front side of the pitching rubber. Excavate or add loose clay as needed until you reach a level that allows the clay block to sit about a half inch below the rubber. It is extremely important that you remove all loose debris and sweep the entire surface of the mound thoroughly after excavation, now you can form the new table. Start by lightly moistening the area so the new clay will adhere to the base. Use loose mound clay to make a level surface and pack it down with a tamper. Be careful not to disturb the pitching rubber. The loose clay should be applied in one-inch layers, tamping as you go. Shake on a layer of AquaSmart Pro. This is a super-absorbent, polymer-coated sand that will help the clay retain moisture over a longer period of time. Moisten the area again. Then start adding the MoundMaster blocks. Begin with the area around the rubber, making sure that the blocks are tightly fitted together. Fill in the remaining space with blocks, then pack it all down with a tamper. Add another layer of AquaSmart and finish by spreading mound clay over the entire area, making enough for it to fill in any open seams, and then tamp it all down. Once you have the table completed, you can start on the slope and the landing area. The slope needs to be as wide as the pitching rubber, which is 24 inches, and should extend seven feet toward home plate. This will also mark the front edge of the landing area. The size of the landing area should be wide enough to support a pitcher's follow-through. Five to six feet wide and three to four feet deep should be sufficient. Now that the slope and landing area are marked off, excavate three inches to make room for the new blocks. Follow the same procedure as the table by adding loose clay, AquaSmart, and blocks until the area is completely filled in and packed down. Keep in mind that the slope should drop one inch for every foot from the front edge of the table to the end of the landing area. You can use your line to make sure that the drop is sufficient by taking measurements at one-foot increments. Once the table, slope, and landing area are complete, moisten the entire mound. Be careful not to flood it. You just want enough water so that you can apply the last layer of clay without it clumping up. Open your remaining bags of mound clay and cover the entire surface of the mound. Use a landscape rake to get an even layer over the entire area. Finish by tamping or you can use a sod roller to make the job go a lot quicker. The final step in the process is to give your mound a professional look by covering it with a layer of Turface conditioner. The purpose of the conditioner is to help retain moisture in the clay. Spread the conditioner with a rake to make sure you have an even coating. Give the mound a good soak, and cover it with a tarp to hold in the moisture. You have a professional pitcher's mound that will allow your players to perform at their very best and reduce your maintenance as the season plays out. All the materials and tools used for this mound reconstruction can be found at your local Ewing branch. You can also visit us online at


Baseball parks in Cincinnati

Union Cricket Club Grounds a.k.a. Union Grounds or Union Park
Occupants: Cincinnati Red Stockings independent professional (1869-1870)
Location: just west of Lincoln Park; Lincoln Park bounded by Kenner Street (north), Freeman Avenue (now Western Avenue) (east), Hopkins Street (south) and Garrard Street / Lincoln Street (west)
Currently: Cincinnati Museum Center at Union Terminal
Avenue Grounds
Occupants: Cincinnati Reds - National League (1876-1879)
Location: about two short blocks west of Spring Grove Avenue, bounded on the south by Alabama Avenue, on the west by Mill Creek, on the north by the imaginary line extending from Monmouth Street, and on the immediate east by railroad tracks
Currently: rail yards
Bank Street Grounds
Cincinnati Reds - NL (1880)
Cincinnati Reds - American Association (1882-1883)
Cincinnati Outlaw Reds - Union Association (1884)
Location: Bank Street (south, third base); McLean Avenue / Spring Grove Avenue (southeast, home plate); Duck Street (southwest, left field); McDermott Street (northwest, center and right fields); houses and Western Avenue (northeast, first base)
Currently: SORTA and CSX Transportation
Crosley Field prev. Redland Field, Palace of the Fans, League Park
Cincinnati Reds - American Association (1884-1889) / National League (1890-1970-mid)
Cincinnati Cubans / Cuban Stars Negro National League (1921)
Cincinnati Tigers Negro American League (1937)
Cincinnati Buckeyes/Clowns Negro American League (1942-1945)
Location: Findlay Street (south); Western Avenue (northeast, angling); York Street (north); McLean Avenue (west)
Currently: industrial park
East End Park
Occupant: Kelly's Killers - American Association (1891 part season)
Location: Humbert Street (southwest, right field); Babb (or Babby) Alley (northeast, some distance beyond third base); Watson Street (southeast, left field); Ridgeley Street (northwest, first base)
Currently: C.L. Harrison Field and Paul Kramer Field in the Schmidt Recreation Complex
Federal Park (Covington, Kentucky)
Occupant: Covington Blue Sox - Federal League (1913 part season)
Location: southwest corner of East 2nd Street and Scott Boulevard - one block south of Ohio River bank, one block west of Roebling Bridge
Currently: parking lot
Riverfront Stadium a.k.a. Cinergy Field
Occupant: Cincinnati Reds - NL (1970-mid - 2002)
Location: 201 East Pete Rose Way
Currently: The Banks mixed-use project
Great American Ball Park
Occupant: Cincinnati Reds - NL (2003-present)
Location: 100 Joe Nuxhall Way

See also


  • Peter Filichia, Professional Baseball Franchises, Facts on File, 1993.
  • Benson, Michael (1989). Ballparks of North America: A Comprehensive Historical Reference to Baseball Grounds, Yards, and Stadiums, 1845 to Present. Jefferson, N.C.: McFarland. ISBN 0-89950-367-5.
  • Lowry, Philip J. (1992). Green Cathedrals: The Ultimate Celebration of All 271 Major League and Negro League Ballparks Past and Present. Reading, Mass.: Addison-Wesley. ISBN 0-201-56777-6.

External links

This page was last edited on 1 February 2018, at 14:12
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