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From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Composite body, painted, and glazed bottle. Iran, 16th century (Metropolitan Museum of Art)
Detail of dripping rice-straw ash glaze (top), Japan, 1852

Ceramic glaze, or simply glaze, is a glassy coating on ceramics. It is used for decoration, to ensure the item is impermeable to liquids and to minimise the adherence of pollutants.[1]

Glazing renders earthenware impermeable to water, sealing the inherent porosity of biscuit earthenware. It also gives a tougher surface. Glaze is also used on stoneware and porcelain. In addition to their functionality, glazes can form a variety of surface finishes, including degrees of glossy or matte finish and color. Glazes may also enhance the underlying design or texture either unmodified or inscribed, carved or painted.

Most pottery produced in recent centuries has been glazed, other than pieces in biscuit porcelain, terracotta, or some other types. Tiles are often glazed on the surface face, and modern architectural terracotta is often glazed. Glazed brick is also common. Sanitaryware is invariably glazed, as are many ceramics used in industry, for example ceramic insulators for overhead power lines.

The most important groups of traditional glazes, each named after its main ceramic fluxing agent, are:

Glaze may be applied by spraying, dipping, trailing or brushing on an aqueous suspension of the unfired glaze. The colour of a glaze after it has been fired may be significantly different from before firing. To prevent glazed wares sticking to kiln furniture during firing, either a small part of the object being fired (for example, the foot) is left unglazed or, alternatively, special refractory "spurs" are used as supports. These are removed and discarded after the firing.

Modern materials technology has invented new glazes that do not necessarily conform to these traditional categories.

YouTube Encyclopedic

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  • The basics of glazing ceramics
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Transcription

It's always exciting when you Get to glaze your pots finally And you get to take them from Looking pink and looking like Everyone else’s To something that really really Beautiful and unique So today we're going to talk About glazing and Just the very basics of how we're Going to do it The first thing you want to Think about is it actually BISQUE WARE And that's a new term for us Bisque ware means it's been fired In the electric kilns once Which means it is no longer GREEN WARE And first let us discuss the Difference between green ware And bisque ware One of the first things you Will notice is the color difference Green ware even when it's really really dry Bone dry it's actually more gray than pink Another thing you will notice is the Sound that it makes when you hit Your fingernail or a metal tool on it When you hit this one There is a clunk, clunk, clunk Almost a hollow sound like when you're Hitting a pumpkin or a melon And when you hit the bique ware There is a very bright sound More like a wind chime or a bell So that's one thing you can look for If you want to get really weird You can actually lick your pot And if you lick the bisque ware pot Your tongue will stick to it And it will not stick to the green ware pot But I don't recommend licking your Friend's pots because you don't know Where their germs have been So we look at the color We look at the sound and then worse-case scenario If you're really confused You can ask me and I will tell you Whether it's ready to glaze of not So now that we have decided that it is Actually bisque ware I want to Talk to you about the importance Of not putting glaze on the bottom Of your pot If you notice this already glazed bowl It has a ring on the bottom like the Foot ring on this bowl that has no glaze on it And the reason that is, that's called a DRY FOOT And that's also a new vocab term The reason you want to have a dry foot On the bottom of your pot is because Glaze doesn't know the difference between The pot you are glazing and the kiln shelf So if you put glaze on the bottom of your pot And stick it on a kiln shelf what ends up Happening is after it melts You get a bowl attached to a kiln shelf And that's not really useful unless you're Super strong and want to lift a kiln shelf Every time you're slurping you're cereal milk So you need to make sure there is no glaze On the bottom Potters used to just glaze their pots And then wipe the bottom off with a sponge But we have a trick that we use That will make it a lot easier And what we use is wax Let me see if it's even labeled And so what we are going to do is Think about all the spots that are Touching the kiln shelf Plus a little bit up the wall On each side And as I'm waxing this I'll tell you Why that's important First I'm covering the bottom Of each pot with wax And then you'll notice that This foot ring is about a Quarter inch up on either side And what we're going to do is We're going to put wax all the Way up until it reaches the bottom of the bowl And the reason we want to do that is Because each glaze is a little bit different We've talked about the fact that Glaze has silica in it And silica is a glass former And when there is a lot of silica in a glaze Or a lot of flux which is what Makes the glaze melt The glaze actually relaxes in the kiln And I like to think of it as shrugging down And it could potentially touch the kiln shelf So we need a little bit of wiggle room In case the glaze decides to run down The foot of our pot a little bit All right, so now we've done the outside And that usually the side people remember to do A lot of times what people forget that The inside of their foot ring needs to be Waxed also Otherwise it's going to stick on the inside All right In one of the next glazing videos I'll show you how to use a banding wheel Which makes this process a lot faster And a little bit less cumbersome So when we glaze this We'll be glazing this part of our pot The very bottom and the inside And so next we need to talk About glazes When you’re deciding what color of glaze You want to use you’re going to notice a Lot of test tiles that are either cups like This with ridges in the middle Or flat tiles that are L shaped They also have ridges in the middle Either way it's going to tell you What the glaze is going to look like After it's been fired So the reason this is important is that If you look in the glaze buckets You're going to see colors like this This glaze is Temmoku or Hamada Rust Is another name of it And it actually turns out this color You'll notice this side of the tile Where the ridges are Where it goes over the sharp edges it turns brown So this would be a really good glaze To use if you had a lot of details on your pot Because you'd be able to see the details better When it goes over the surface You can also see on the flip side That when you put it on thicker It turns black. So be cautious if you like this Kind of really rusty black and gold color That you put it on just with one coat vs two The backs of these tiles have two dips on them Now that you've picked what color you're going to do You're almost to the part where You actually get to glaze your pot But there's one more thing you have to check before You actually glaze it And that is to make sure the glaze Is the right consistency So if you look at the top of this glaze bucket What you might notice is that there is a Kind of liquidy, watery section on top that Isn't the same as the rest of the glaze As I stir it up The clear section of water goes away as I mix it And I'm also I kind of feeling around on the bottom To make sure there are no big chunks Or whether on particular chemical has settles on the bottom Sometimes people think that if the top Of the glaze is stirred up that's good enough But really it's not because some of the important Chemicals might be at the bottom And if you don't get the right combination The glaze won't turn out the way you want it to And now that I've made sure there're no chunks And it's all the same consistency I want to think about what consistency that is Ideally you want to be a little bit Thicker than whole milk You want it to be not super-chunky like oatmeal You want it to be runny enough that It goes onto your pot evenly But you don't want it to be so thin That you don't get enough glaze on there So if it's like if it's like thick Well-stirred hot chocolate That's what I like to think about it All right When you're glazing with any of the glazes That are red colored while they're in liquid form You want to be carefully about Getting them on your clothes because It means that they have iron oxide in them Which I said before is the same as rust So you want to make sure that if you Needed to wear an apron, you wear one Or bring an extra change of clothes from home So your parents aren't mad at you for Getting glaze on your clothes Or just be super-careful when You're using these glazes That have a lot of iron in them So what I'm going to do to glaze This bowl all one color is I'm Going to use this pair of thongs And I'm going to clamp the side And I'm going to make sure it is Firmly clamped before I let go Now when I put it in the glaze I going to make sure it gets all the way in And I'm going to hold it under for about A full second before I pull it out and Make sure all of the glaze is dumped out So you can see what that looks like So I'm going to go in One thousand one And then I make sure all of the Glaze is dumped out Make sure you also dump out the glaze That's caught in the foot ring Some people forget about that And they end up splash that on their clothes You see that the glaze is drying fairly quickly And that wax is doing a really good job of Keeping that glaze of the bottom Next I'm going to flip it over And unclamp the pot And you'll see there are these Little marks from where the tools were So what you can do is you can Put a tiny little bit of glaze On the inside If you have any cuts on your fingers Any wounds from other classes If you take Mr. Duvall's class you'll know What I talking about You'll want to make sure that you Either use gloves or a paint brush Because you don't want to get the Metals inside of your cut It's not very good for you Since I don't have any cuts on my finger I am confident I can smooth it all out All right if you see any of These smaller bumps on the surface Those will actually melt out Once it's really hot So you don't have to worry about Getting it perfectly smooth You just want to make sure It's smooth in general You can see that there're Some bumps on the inside And what you can do is Just take your finger and lightly sand them To make it smooth And now we can go over the sink And get it ready for the kiln To get your pot ready for the kiln You have to make sure you have a truly dry foot Which means there is no glaze on the bottom So even though the wax did an excellent job Of keeping most of the glaze off You can still see that there're still a few Spots on there So what I'm going to do is take a sponge And make sure I ring Most of the water out of it And then I going to give it a quick little wipe To make sure that there're no glaze spots Double check that I've gotten glaze All over everywhere on my piece of pottery And now I can take it out to the kiln And then it will be fired And then it will make an excellent Little ice cream bowl So some people might wonder Why I only put one coat of glaze On this particular piece And that was because the glaze was just The right thickness that when I dipped It once it gave a nice even coating Over the whole glaze I really like it when that Temmoku glaze Turns out with that rusty bown-black Combination If I wanted it to be solid black With this particular glaze I could dunk it a second time And that would make it darker However you want to make sure that You never put more than three layers of glaze That's not a hard, set in stone number That's just a rule that I generally use With the glazes in our studio Because if sometimes you put too much Glaze on a pot it will actually Run fairly heavily And this person got very lucky You can see this drip in particular Went all the way down and almost touched The kiln self but didn't However some student haven't gotten so lucky And their pottery becomes a permanent installation Of art on the shelves out in the kiln And they don't get to take it home And it's very, very frustrating And they also get to spend a lot of time Grinding the shelves for me Which isn't super fun So just make sure that you're not putting Glaze on too thick The other thing you need to make sure off In terms of caring for your glaze Before it gets to the kiln Is once it turns into this Dry, powdery chalk on the outside Be very carefully not to bang it Against any hard edges Or hit it with your fingernail Because you can actually flake Pieces of glaze off and then you won't Have any glaze there and it won't Look as nice Also let's pretend you have two pots One with a glaze that's very red And other glaze that is very white Make sure you wash your hands Before you touch the piece of pottery That's isn’t the darker colored glaze Because it will transfer just like Chalk and powder to your clothes It will transfer to the other pieces Of pottery

History

Historically, glazing of ceramics developed rather slowly, as appropriate materials needed to be discovered, and also firing technology able to reliably reach the necessary temperatures was needed. Glazes first appeared on stone materials in the 4th millennium BC, and Ancient Egyptian faience (fritware rather than a clay-based material) was self-glazing, as the material naturally formed a glaze-like layer during firing. Glazing of pottery followed the invention of glass around 1500 BC, in the Middle East and Egypt with alkali glazes including ash glaze, and in China, using ground feldspar. By around 100 BC lead-glazing was widespread in the Old World.[3]

Glazed brick goes back to the Elamite Temple at Chogha Zanbil, dated to the 13th century BC. The Iron Pagoda, built in 1049 in Kaifeng, China, of glazed bricks is a well-known later example.[4]

Lead glazed earthenware was probably made in China during the Warring States period (475 – 221 BC), and its production increased during the Han dynasty. High temperature proto-celadon glazed stoneware was made earlier than glazed earthenware, since the Shang dynasty (1600 – 1046 BCE).[5]

During the Kofun period of Japan, Sue ware was decorated with greenish natural ash glazes. From 552 to 794 AD, differently colored glazes were introduced. The three colored glazes of the Tang dynasty were frequently used for a period, but were gradually phased out; the precise colors and compositions of the glazes have not been recovered. Natural ash glaze, however, was commonly used throughout the country.

In the 13th century, flower designs were painted with red, blue, green, yellow and black overglazes. Overglazes became very popular because of the particular look they gave ceramics.

From the eighth century, the use of glazed ceramics was prevalent in Islamic art and Islamic pottery, usually in the form of elaborate pottery.[citation needed] Tin-opacified glazing was one of the earliest new technologies developed by the Islamic potters. The first Islamic opaque glazes can be found as blue-painted ware in Basra, dating to around the 8th century. Another significant contribution was the development of stoneware, originating from 9th century Iraq.[6][full citation needed] Other places for innovative pottery in the Islamic world included Fustat (from 975 to 1075), Damascus (from 1100 to around 1600) and Tabriz (from 1470 to 1550).[citation needed]

Composition

Glazes need to include a ceramic flux which functions by promoting partial liquefaction in the clay bodies and the other glaze materials. Fluxes lower the high melting point of the glass forms silica, and sometimes boron trioxide. These glass forms may be included in the glaze materials, or may be drawn from the clay beneath.

Raw materials for ceramic glazes generally include silica, which will be the main glass former. Various metal oxides, such as those of sodium, potassium and calcium, act as flux and therefore lower the melting temperature. Alumina, often derived from clay, stiffens the molten glaze to prevent it from running off the piece.[7] Colorants, such as iron oxide, copper carbonate or cobalt carbonate,[7] and sometimes opacifiers including tin oxide and zirconium oxide, are used to modify the visual appearance of the fired glaze.

Process

İznik tiles in the Enderûn Library, Topkapi Palace, Istanbul

Glaze may be applied by dry-dusting a dry mixture over the surface of the clay body or by inserting salt or soda into the kiln at high temperatures to create an atmosphere rich in sodium vapor that interacts with the aluminium and silica oxides in the body to form and deposit glass, producing what is known as salt glaze pottery. Most commonly, glazes in aqueous suspension of various powdered minerals and metal oxides are applied by dipping pieces directly into the glaze. Other techniques include pouring the glaze over the piece, spraying it onto the piece with an airbrush or similar tool, or applying it directly with a brush or other tool.

To prevent the glazed article from sticking to the kiln during firing, either a small part of the item is left unglazed, or it is supported on small refractory supports such as kiln spurs and stilts that are removed and discarded after the firing. Small marks left by these spurs are sometimes visible on finished ware.

Colour and decoration

Underglaze decoration is applied before the glaze, usually to unfired pottery ("raw" or "greenware") but sometimes to "biscuit"-fired (an initial firing of some articles before the glazing and re-firing).[8][9][10] A wet glaze—usually transparent—is applied over the decoration. The pigment fuses with the glaze, and appears to be underneath a layer of clear glaze; generally the body material used fires to a whitish colour. The best known type of underglaze decoration is the blue and white porcelain first produced in China, and then copied in other countries. The striking blue color uses cobalt as cobalt oxide or cobalt carbonate.[11] However many of the imitative types, such as Delftware, have brownish earthenware bodies, which are given a white tin-glaze and either inglaze or overglaze decoration. With the English invention of creamware and other white-bodied earthenwares in the 18th century, underglaze decoration became widely used on earthenware as well as porcelain.

Sancai coloured lead-glazes in a Tang dynasty tomb guardian.
Chinese celadon shrine; coloured glaze, with the figure left unglazed. Ming dynasty, 1300-1400

Overglaze decoration is applied on top of a fired layer of glaze, and generally uses colours in "enamel", essentially glass, which require a second firing at a relatively low temperature to fuse them with the glaze. Because it is only fired at a relatively low temperature, a wider range of pigments could be used in historic periods. Overglaze colors are low-temperature glazes that give ceramics a more decorative, glassy look. A piece is fired first, this initial firing being called the glost firing, then the overglaze decoration is applied, and it is fired again. Once the piece is fired and comes out of the kiln, its texture is smoother due to the glaze.

Other methods are firstly inglaze, where the paints are applied onto the glaze before firing, and then become incorporated within the glaze layer during firing. This works well with tin-glazed pottery, such as maiolica, but the range of colours was limited to those that could withstand a glost firing, as with underglaze. Coloured glazes, where the pigments are mixed into the liquid glaze before it is applied to the pottery, are mostly used to give a single colour to a whole piece, as in most celadons, but can also be used to create designs in contrasting colours, as in Chinese sancai ("three-colour") wares, or even painted scenes.

Many historical styles, for example Japanese Imari ware, Chinese doucai and wucai, combine the different types of decoration. In such cases the first firing for the body, any underglaze decoration and glaze is typically followed by a second firing after the overglaze enamels have been applied.

Environmental impact

Glazed stupa model, Yuan dynasty

Heavy metals are dense metals used in glazes to produce a particular color or texture.[9] Glaze components are more likely to be leached into the environment when non-recycled ceramic products are exposed to warm or acidic water.[12] Leaching of heavy metals occurs when ceramic products are glazed incorrectly or damaged.[12] Lead and chromium are two heavy metals which can be used in ceramic glazes that are heavily monitored by government agencies due to their toxicity and ability to bioaccumulate.[12][13]

Metal oxide chemistry

Metals used in ceramic glazes are typically in the form of metal oxides.

Lead(II) oxide

Ceramic manufacturers primarily use lead(II) oxide (PbO) as a flux for its low melting range, wide firing range, low surface tension, high index of refraction, and resistance to devitrification.[14] Lead used in the manufacture of commercial glazes are molecularly bound to silica in a 1:1 ratio, or included in frit form, to ensure stabilization and reduce the risk of leaching.[15]

In polluted environments, nitrogen dioxide reacts with water (H
2
O
) to produce nitrous acid (HNO
2
) and nitric acid (HNO
3
).[13]

H
2
O
+ 2NO
2
HNO
2
+ HNO
3

Soluble Lead(II) nitrate (Pb(NO
3
)
2
) forms when lead(II) oxide (PbO) of leaded glazes is exposed to nitric acid (HNO
3
)

PbO + 2HNO
3
Pb(NO
3
)
2
+ H
2
O

Because lead exposure is strongly linked to a variety of health problems, collectively referred to as lead poisoning, the disposal of leaded glass (chiefly in the form of discarded CRT displays) and lead-glazed ceramics is subject to toxic waste regulations.

Barium carbonate and Strontium carbonate

Barium carbonate (BaCO3) is used to create a unique glaze color known as barium blue. However, the ethical nature of using barium carbonate for glazes on food contact surfaces has come into question. Barium poisoning by ingestion can result in convulsions, paralysis, digestive discomfort, and death.[16] It is also somewhat soluble in acid,[17] and can contaminate water and soil for long periods of time. These concerns have led to attempts to substitute Strontium carbonate (SrCO3) in glazes that require barium carbonate.[18] Unlike Barium carbonate, Strontium carbonate is not considered a safety hazard by the NIH.[19][17] Experiments in strontium substitution tend to be successful in gloss type glazes, although there are some effects and colors produced in matte type glazes that can only be obtained through use of barium.[18]

To reduce the likelihood of leaching, barium carbonate is used in frit form and bound to silica in a 1:1 ratio. It is also recommended that barium glazes not be used on food contact surfaces or outdoor items.[20]

Chromium(III) oxide

Chromium(III) oxide (Cr
2
O
3
) is used as a colorant in ceramic glazes. Chromium(III) oxide can undergo a reaction with calcium oxide (CaO) and atmospheric oxygen in temperatures reached by a kiln to produce calcium chromate (CaCrO
4
). The oxidation reaction changes chromium from its +3 oxidation state to its +6 oxidation state.[21] Chromium(VI) is very soluble and the most mobile out of all the other stable forms of chromium.[22]

Cr
2
O
3
+ 2CaO + 32O
2
CaCrO
4
[21]

Chromium may enter water systems via industrial discharge. Chromium(VI) can enter the environment directly or oxidants present in soils can react with chromium(III) to produce chromium(VI). Plants have reduced amounts of chlorophyll when grown in the presence of chromium(VI).[22]

Uranium(IV) oxide (UO2)

Urania-based ceramic glazes are dark green or black when fired in a reduction or when UO2 is used; more commonly it is used in oxidation to produce bright yellow, orange and red glazes[23] Uranium glazes were used in the 1920s and 1930s for making uranium tile, watch, clock and aircraft dials.[24]

Uranium dioxide is produced by reducing uranium trioxide with hydrogen.

UO3 + H2 → UO2 + H2O at 700 °C (973 K)

Prevention

Chromium oxidation during manufacturing processes can be reduced with the introduction of compounds that bind to calcium.[21] Ceramic industries are reluctant to use lead alternatives since leaded glazes provide products with a brilliant shine and smooth surface. The United States Environmental Protection Agency has experimented with a dual glaze, barium alternative to lead, but they were unsuccessful in achieving the same optical effect as leaded glazes.

Gallery

See also

References

  1. ^ Division, Company Statistics. "Statistics of U.S. Businesses Main Page". www.census.gov. Archived from the original on 26 November 2015. Retrieved 27 November 2015.
  2. ^ C D Fortnum, 1875, Maiolica, Chapter II on Enamelled or Stanniferous Glazed Wares "It was found that by the addition of a certain portion of the oxide of tin to the composition of glass and oxide of lead the character of the glaze entirely alters. Instead of being translucent it becomes, on fusion, an opaque and beautifully white enamel…"
  3. ^ Paul T. Craddock (2009). Scientific Investigation of Copies, Fakes and Forgeries. Routledge. p. 207. ISBN 978-0-7506-4205-7. Pottery only began to be glazed from the mid second millennium BC, coincident with the first production of glass.
  4. ^ Daiheng, Gao (2002). Chinese Architecture – The Lia, Song, Xi Xia and Jin Dynasties (English ed.). Yale University Press. pp. 166, 183. ISBN 978-0-300-09559-3.
  5. ^ Zhiyan, Li (2002). Chinese Ceramics -- From the Paleolithic Period through the Qing Dynasty (English ed.). New York & London, Beijing: Yale University Press, Foreign Languages Press. pp. 144, 145, 152. ISBN 978-0-300-11278-8.
  6. ^ Mason (1995), p. 5
  7. ^ a b Madan, Gaurav (2005). S.Chands Success Guide (Q&A) Inorganic Chemistry. S. Chand Publishing. ISBN 9788121918572.
  8. ^ "Cleaning Biscuit Fired Ceramic Ware" Hulse D.K, Barnett W.C. UK Pat.Appl.GB2287643A
  9. ^ a b Denio, Allen A. (1 April 1980). "Chemistry for potters". Journal of Chemical Education. 57 (4): 272. Bibcode:1980JChEd..57..272D. doi:10.1021/ed057p272.
  10. ^ "Roller Kilns For The Fast Biscuit And Glost Firing Of Porcelain" Rodriguez Mamolar M.J., De La Fuente Revuelta J. Ceram. Inf.(Spain) 20, No.202. 1994. Pg. 25–27
  11. ^ 'Ceramics Glaze Technology.' J.R.Taylor & A.C.Bull. The Institute Of Ceramics & Pergamon Press. Oxford. 1986
  12. ^ a b c Omolaoye, J.A,, A. Uzairu, and C.E. Gimba. "Heavy Metal Assessment of Some Ceramic Products Imported into Nigeria from China." Archives of Applied Science Research 2.5 (2010): 120-25. Web. 15 October 2015
  13. ^ a b Baltrusaitis, Jonas; Chen, Haihan; Rubasinghege, Gayan; Grassian, Vicki H. (4 December 2012). "Heterogeneous Atmospheric Chemistry of Lead Oxide Particles with Nitrogen Dioxide Increases Lead Solubility: Environmental and Health Implications". Environmental Science & Technology. 46 (23): 12806–12813. Bibcode:2012EnST...4612806B. doi:10.1021/es3019572. ISSN 0013-936X. PMC 3518381. PMID 23057678.
  14. ^ Lehman, Richard. Lead Glazes for Ceramic Foodware. 1st ed. Research Triangle Park: International Lead Management Center, 2002. International Lead Management Center   Archived 27 January 2018 at the Wayback Machine
  15. ^ Pan, De'an (20 February 2018). "Characteristics and properties of glass-ceramics using lead fuming slag". Journal of Cleaner Production. 175: 251–256. doi:10.1016/j.jclepro.2017.12.030 – via Elsevier Science Direct.
  16. ^ "ATSDR - Public Health Statement: Barium". www.atsdr.cdc.gov. Retrieved 28 April 2020.
  17. ^ a b PubChem. "Barium carbonate". pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov. Retrieved 28 April 2020.
  18. ^ a b Semler, Daniel (17 November 2009). "Leaving Bariumville: Replacing Barium Carbonate in Cone 10 Glazes". Ceramic Arts Daily. Retrieved 27 April 2020.
  19. ^ PubChem. "Strontium carbonate". pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov. Retrieved 7 May 2020.
  20. ^ Hansen, Tony. "Barium in Materials and Fired Glazes (hazard)". digitalfire.com. Retrieved 7 May 2020.
  21. ^ a b c Verbinnen, Bram; Billen, Pieter; Van Coninckxloo, Michiel; Vandecasteele, Carlo (4 June 2013). "Heating Temperature Dependence of Cr(III) Oxidation in the Presence of Alkali and Alkaline Earth Salts and Subsequent Cr(VI) Leaching Behavior". Environmental Science & Technology. 47 (11): 5858–5863. Bibcode:2013EnST...47.5858V. doi:10.1021/es4001455. ISSN 0013-936X. PMID 23635007.
  22. ^ a b Oliveira, Helena (20 May 2012). "Chromium as an Environmental Pollutant: Insights on Induced Plant Toxicity". Journal of Botany. 2012: 1–8. doi:10.1155/2012/375843.
  23. ^ Örtel, Stefan. Uran in der Keramik. Geschichte - Technik - Hersteller
  24. ^ Uranium tile

Bibliography

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