Effect of shallow water on a surface gravity wave
When waves travel into areas of shallow water, they begin to be affected by the ocean bottom.[1] The free orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water particles in orbital motion no longer return to their original position. As the water becomes shallower, the swell becomes higher and steeper, ultimately assuming the familiar sharp-crested wave shape. After the wave breaks, it becomes a wave of translation and erosion of the ocean bottom intensifies.
Cnoidal waves are exact periodic solutions to the Korteweg–de Vries equation in shallow water, that is, when the wavelength of the wave is much greater than the depth of the water.
YouTube Encyclopedic
-
1/4Views:97 4211 420625215 702
-
GCSE Physics - Water Waves - Shallow to Deep Water
-
surface water wave | deep and shallow water wave | hindi | open channel flow | civilmantra
-
Calculate Wave Length and Wave Speed: Deep vs Shallow vs Intermediate waves
-
Wave Behaviour | Waves | Physics | FuseSchool
Transcription
See also
- Ballantine scale – Marine biology measurement scale
- Boussinesq approximation (water waves) – Approximation valid for weakly non-linear and fairly long waves
- Mild-slope equation – Physics phenomenon and formula
- Shallow water equations – Set of partial differential equations that describe the flow below a pressure surface in a fluid
- Stokes drift – Average velocity of a fluid parcel in a gravity wave
- Undertow (water waves) – Return flow below (nearshore) water waves.
- Ursell number – Dimensionless number indicating the nonlinearity of long surface gravity waves on a fluid layer.
- Wave shoaling – Effect by which surface waves entering shallower water change in wave height
References
- ^ The Maury Project: Shallow-Water Ocean Waves. The American Meteorological Society. 2018.
External links
This oceanography article is a stub. You can help Wikipedia by expanding it. |
This page was last edited on 14 January 2024, at 19:04